Monday, October 21, 2013
ITTY BITTY AND NOT SO ITTY BITTY MITTS FOR KIDS
The local Salvation Army was so pleased to get my caps I decided to make something to keep little hands warm. I made a mitten, then thought if only the end was open it would fit a wider range of ages. So I played around with my envisioned mitt. It had to be quick, no sewing and fit lots of kids. I came up with was the Itty Bit Bigger mitt, of course at that point I hadn't named it. Then I decided I needed a wider range of sizes so came up with the Itty Bitty and the Not So Itty Bitty mitts. So today I delivered the first batch of mitts and 59 more caps.
I hope you will enjoy this pattern and maybe make a few for a charity. After all these kids didn't make the decision to live in a car or under a bridge.
ITTY BITTY AND NOT SO ITTY BITTY CROCHETED MITTS FOR KIDS
Many thanks to Vanessa in WA who tested this pattern for me.
Below you see her mitt.
SIZES: Crocheted with Red Heart Super Saver (if made with a
different thickness yarn your results will be different. Vanessa made hers with a G and H hooks.
Itty Bitty:
2.75 inches across above thumb hole and 5.75 inches long
Itty Bit Bigger: 3 inches across above thumb hole and 6.5 inches long
Not So Itty Bitty:
3.25 inches across above
thumb hole and 7.5 inches long
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight (4) yarn
approximately 1.5 (1.75, 2) ounces
US Size G (4.50 mm) crochet
hook
US Size F (4.00 mm) crochet
hook
Marker ( I use a bobby pin)
Tapestry needle
GAUGE:
8 sc = 2 inches
ABBREVIATIONS:
Ch = chain
Sc =
single crochet
St = stitch
Sts = stitches
NOTES:
- Read instructions through before beginning.
- Mitts are the same for both hands.
- After the cuff is joined into a
tube the hand portion of the mitt is worked in continuous rounds. This
is where your marker needs to be used to keep track of rounds.
- Okay, here’s my spiel about the
different thicknesses of worsted weight (4) yarns. The
thickness vary from the thinner yarns like Lion Brand Pound of Love and
Caron Simply Soft to the thicker Caron One Pound. All called worsted weight (4) yarns, go
figure. Due to this huge difference
you may need to change your hook size and if making for a specific person
use instructions for smaller or larger size than the measurements above
indicate.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Smallest size is first,
medium and large in parentheses. Small
(medium, large)
CUFF:
With G hook, ch 8 (9, 10)
sts.
Switch to F hook for remainder of cuff.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and each remaining
ch. I like to work into the bumps on the
back of the chain, but that isn’t necessary.
(7, 8, 9 sts)
Rows 2-21 (2-23, 2-25): Ch
1, turn. Sc in the back loop of each st
across. (7, 8, 9 sts)
Joining cuff into a tube:
Ch 1, turn. Hold the cuff as though you are about to work
another row. Take the beginning edge of your cuff and fold up to meet the
last row worked. Hook should be to the right, and in the row behind the
beginning yarn tail. Slipstitch these rows together through the back loop.
(7, 8, 9 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Turn cuff so
that the slipstitch row is to the inside.
Change to G hook for remainder of
mitt.
Round 1: Ch 1, working into the sides of the cuff rows,
sc 21 (23, 25) sts around top edge of cuff. Do not join, work in
continuous rounds. (21, 23, 25 sts)
Round 2: Sc in next 9 (10, 11) sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 (9, 10)
sts. (23, 25, 27 sts)
Round 3:
Sc around. (23, 25, 27 sts)
Round 4: Sc in next 10 (11, 12)
sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 (10, 11)
sts. (25, 27, 29 sts)
Round 5: Sc around. (25,
27, 29 sts)
Round 6: Sc in next 11 (12,
13) sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 (11,
12) sts. (27, 29, 31 sts)
Round 7:
Sc around. (27, 29, 31 sts)
Round 8:
Sc in next 12 (13, 14) sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in
next st, sc in next 11 (12, 13) sts. (29, 31, 33 sts)
Round 9: Sc around. (29, 31, 33 sts)
Round 10: Sc in next 13 (14, 15) sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2
sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 (13, 14) sts. (31, 33, 35 sts)
Small size skip to round 13.
Round 11 (medium and large only): Sc around. (33, 35 sts)
Medium size skip to round 13.
Round 12 (large only): Sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc
in next st, sc in next 15 sts. (37 sts)
Round 13 (all sizes): Sc in next 11 (12, 13) sts, skip 9
(9, 11) sts (for thumb hole), sc in next 11 (12, 13) sts. (22, 24, 26
sts)
Round 14: Sc into each st around. (22, 24, 26 sts)
Repeat
round 14 until the measurement from the thumb hole is 1.5 (1.75, 2) inches.
Approximately 6 (7, 9) rounds].
Remove
marker and lay mitt flat with thumb hole to one side. Last st should be at the side opposite the
thumb hole, if it not sc to 1 st before side and slipstitch in next st. Here you can fasten off your usual way or use
the invisible fasten off.
Weave in
ends.
Make a
second mitt.
Friday, October 11, 2013
OPERATION HOLIDAY STOCKINGS
You Are Invited To Support Our Troops!
This stocking was designed specifically for Operation Holiday Stockings, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit that sends stockings to our brave troops serving overseas. Please consider sending one or more to:
Operation Holiday Stockings
P.O. Box 3186
Sequim, WA 98382
Edited to add: They can be any color. For this year please mail in time to arrive by Nov 15th. They accept stocking year round, so keep them in mind.
Operation Holiday Stockings
P.O. Box 3186
Sequim, WA 98382
Edited to add: They can be any color. For this year please mail in time to arrive by Nov 15th. They accept stocking year round, so keep them in mind.
MATERIALS:
Approximately 1.25 ounce Red
Heart Super Saver worsted weight yarn
Small amount of White yarn
for cuff
Size US G (4.5 mm) hook
Tapestry needle
SIZE:
4 X 8 inches
GAUGE:
7 dc = 2 inches
4 dc rounds = 2 inches
ABBREVIATIONS:
Ch = chain
Dc = double crochet
St = stitch
Sts = stitches
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Rev sc = reverse single
crochet
NOTES:
- Read instruction through before beginning.
- Yarns used in sample are Red Heart Super Saver;
Paddy Green and White.
- For best results stocking needs to be worked at
a fairly tight tension. That is why
I used a G hook for this project.
If you crochet loosely, please use a smaller hook.
- Ch 2 at the beginning of rounds does not count
as a stitch. Skip the ch 2 and work
into the first dc.
INSTRUCTIONS
All
slipstitches in this section should be pulled tight. The stitch should almost disappear.
Rnd
1: Ch 3, working over starting tail 10 dc in 3rd
ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in
first dc. Remember to pull the
slipstitch tight. (10 sts)
Rnd
2: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in next
st. *Dc in next st, 2 dc in next
st. Repeat from * three times. Join with
a slipstitch in first dc. (15 sts)
Pull the beginning tail tight to close
any hole in the toe.
Rnd
3: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, dc in next st, 2
dc in next st. *Dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc
in next st. Repeat from * three times.
Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (20
sts)
Rnd
4: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, dc in next 2
sts, 2 dc in next st. *Dc in next 3 sts,
2 dc in next st. Repeat from * three
times. Join with a slipstitch in first dc.
(25 sts)
Rnd
5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in each st
to end of round. Join with a slipstitch
in first dc. (26 sts)
Rnd
6-8: Ch 2, *dc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (26 sts)
Heel:
Slipstitches in this section should NOT be pulled
tight.
Row 1 (right side): Ch 1, sc in 1 st, hdc in next
st, sc in next st, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (4 sts)
On rows 2-12 the last sc and slipstitch
are worked into the dc sts of round 8.
Row 2: Sc in 2 sts, hdc in
next st, sc in next 2 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (6 sts)
Row 3: Sc in 2 sts, hdc in
3 sts (when working in hdc of previous row go into the front 2 loops of st), sc
in 2 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (8 sts)
Row 4:
Sc in 3 sts, hdc in 3 sts, sc in 3 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1
turn. (10 sts)
Row 5: Sc in 3 sts, hdc in
5 sts (when working in hdc of previous row go into the front 2 loops of st), sc
in 3 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (12 sts)
Row 6: Sc in 4 sts, hdc in 5
sts, sc in 4 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (14 sts)
Row 7: Sc in 4 sts, hdc in
7 sts (when working in hdc of previous row go into the front 2 loops of st), sc
in 4 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (16 sts)
Row 8: Sc in 4 sts, hdc in
9 sts, sc in 4 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (18 sts)
Row 9: Sc in 4 sts, hdc in
11 sts (when working in hdc of previous row go into the front 2 loops of st),
sc in 4 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (20 sts)
Row 10: Sc in 4 sts, hdc in
13 sts, sc in 4 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (22 sts)
Row 11: Sc in 5 sts, hdc in
13 sts (when working in hdc of previous row go into the front 2 loops of st),
sc in 5 sts, slipstitch in next st, ch 1 turn. (24 sts)
Row 12: Sc in 5 sts, hdc in
15 sts, sc in 5 sts, slipstitch in next st. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. Pull the slipstitch tight. (26
sts)
Now go back to working
in rounds, resuming above round count.
Leg:
All slipstitches in this section should
be pulled tight.
Rnd
9: Ch 2, turn. (When working in hdc of previous
row go into the front 2 loops of st). Dc
in 6 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in 12 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in each remaining
st. Join with a slipstitch in first
dc. (28 sts)
Rnd
10-13: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (28 sts)
Fasten off.
Cuff
:
All
slipstitches in this section should be pulled tight.
Change to the trim color.
Rnd
14: Attach yarn with a sc. Sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (28 sts)
Rnd
15: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (28 sts)
If you don’t like crocheting reverse
single crochet repeat round 15.
Rnd
16: Ch 1, rev sc in each stitch. Fasten off without joining and use the
tapestry needle to join.
Weave in ends.
