Monday, May 31, 2010

MAY FLOWERS HAT CONTEST WINNER


Here is the winning hat in the May Flowers Hat contest.
The pattern for the hat can be found in the right hand side bar under hats. The flowers are Denise's own and not included in the pattern.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

PONYTAIL CAP


Thanks to Caterina for testing this pattern. She tested it about two years ago, not sure why I never got around to posting it.

SIZES: Child=16 inch {Youth=19 inch} [Adult=21 inch]

MATERIALS:
Worsted Weight yarn, approximately 2.5 ounces

H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Small No Damage ponytail elastic, approximately 1.25 inch in diameter
Tapestry needle

NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way though before beginning.
2. Ch 2 at beginning of round does NOT count as a dc.
3. Pull the joining slipstitches tight.
4. Don’t worry about the 18 sc not covering the hair elastic tightly. When you add the top knot it won’t show.


INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: 18 sc around elastic. Join in back loop of first sc with a slipstitch. (18 sts)

Round 2: Working in back loop only for this round, ch 2, 2 dc in same space as join. *Dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. End with dc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. (24 sts)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join. *Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. End with dc in last st. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. (36 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join. *Dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. End with dc in last 2 sts. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. (48 sts)

Round 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join. *Dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. End with dc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. (60 sts)


For child’s size skip to rounds 6-10, working on 60 stitches.

Round {6} Youth only: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join. *Dc in next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. End with dc in last 9 sts. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. {66}

Round [6] Adult only: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, (dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. [72]

Rounds 6-10 {7-11} [7-11]: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, dc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first dc. 60 {66} [72]

CUFF:
Round 11 {12} [12]: Ch 1, sc in the front loop of each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first sc. 60 {66} [72]

Rounds 12-14 {13-15} [13-16]:
Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first sc. 60 {66} [72]


Optional edging:

Round 14 {15} [16]: Ch 1, reverse sc in each sc (be sure to skip the stitch made by the slip stitch). Do not join, you will have a nearly invisible join if you fasten off and weave in end.

Top Knot: Attach yarn in any unworked loop of round one. (Ch 10, slipstitch in same st) 3 times. *Slipstitch in next st, (Ch 10 slipstitch in same st) 3 times. Repeat from * around, having 3 chain 10 loops and 4 slipstitches in each stitch.

Cuff may be worn up or down.



This cap is the version Chris M made, see her comments below.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

May Flowers Hat Contest


The winner in the contest can be seen HERE.

May Flowers Hat Contest

After some inspiration from a friend I’ve decided to have a contest.


To enter you will need to be a member of Suzies Yarnie Stuff on Yahoo Groups.

There will be at least one prize. Just for fun the prize will be a surprise.
Change of plan, you can see the prize here.

THE RULES:
1. Make one of the May Flowers Hat:

2. Embellish your hat. Anything goes.

3. Enter a photo of your hat in the 2May Flowers Hat Album.

4. You may enter as many times as you want.

5. Deadline for entries will be May 17, 2010

6. Then I will set up a poll on SYS to run from May 18-24, 2010.


Yep, you will pick the winner.

PRIZE FOR MAY FLOWERS HAT CONTEST

These skeins of Happy Holiday yarn are the prize for the May Flowers Hat Contest. Who knows there may be other little things that sneak their way into the box as well. Holiday yarn can be hard to find, so you better get busy and make and embellish a May Flowers Hat.


Friday, May 14, 2010

Patterns that were on Ravelry

I'm in the process of deleting ALL my patterns from Ravelry. When the pattern can't be deleted I will delete the information.

The pattern will still be available here.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

MANDARIN BABY JACKET






Vanessa's MJ using Caron Simply Soft.

Special thanks to Vanessa and Virginia for testing this pattern.

MANDARIN BABY JACKET


SIZE: About 22 inches
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn in main color approximately 4 ounces
Worsted weight yarn in contrasting color approximately 1/4 ounce Size
US I (5.5 mm) crochet hook for jacket
Size US G (4.5 mm) crochet hook for frog closure
Tapestry needle

SPECIAL STITCHES:
Shell:
= (dc, ch 1, dc)
Sc Dec: = Insert hook in next st, draw up a lp, (two lps on hk), insert hook in next st, draw up a lp (3 lps on hook), YO and draw through all 3 lps.

NOTES:
1. Read pattern all the way through before beginning.
2. Use photo for placement of frog closure.
INSTRUCTIONS:
With the main color ch 43.

Row 1: Dc in the 3rd ch from hook (do not count unworked chs as first dc) and in the next ch, shell in the next chain, dc in next 7 ch, shell in the next chain, dc in next 11 ch, shell in next chain, dc in next 7 ch, shell in next chain, dc in the next 10 chs. Ch 2, turn. (45 sts)

Row 2: Dc in 11 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 9 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 13 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 9 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 3 sts. Ch 2, turn. (53 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 3: Dc in 4 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 11 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in next 15 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 11 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 12 sts. Ch 2, turn. (62 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 4: Dc in 13 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 13 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 17 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 13 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 5 sts. Ch 2, turn. (69 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 5: Dc in 6 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 15 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 19 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 15 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 14 sts. Ch 2, turn. (77 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 6: Dc in 15 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 17 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 21 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 17 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 7 sts. Ch 2, turn. (85 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 7: Dc in 8 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 19 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 23 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 19 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 16 sts. Ch 2, turn. (93 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 8:
Dc in 17 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 21 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 25 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 21 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 9 sts. Ch 2, turn. (101 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 9:
Dc in 10 sts. Shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 23 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 27 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 23 sts, shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 18 sts. Ch 2, turn. (109 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 10: Dc in 19 sts, fold sleeve matching up ch 1 sps, dc over both ch 1 sps. Dc in 29 sts, fold sleeve matching up ch 1 sps, dc over both ch 1 sps. Dc in last 11 sts. Ch 2, turn. (61 sts)

Rows 11-16: Dc in each st across. Ch 2, turn. (61 dc)

Do not fasten off.

EDGING:
Row 1: Ch 1, work 30 sc up right front. Ch 1, sc in same st as 30th sc,
sc in 3 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts,
sc in 5 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts,
sc in 10 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts,
sc in 6 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts, sc in last 10 sts.
Ch 1, sc in same st, 31 sc down the left front.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in the front loop only of each st to ch 1 sp. 3 sc in ch 1 sp. Sc in each st to next ch 1 sp.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

FROG CLOSURE:
With G hook and black yarn, leaving a 8 inch tail for sewing, ch 10, slipstitch in first ch. *Ch 8, slipstitch in same st. Repeat from * twice. Do not join fasten off leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing..

With tapestry needle run yarn under the center slipstitches and pull center closed. Using tails sew to left front, allowing ch 10 loop to extend past edge.

BALL:

Round 1: With G hook and black yarn, leaving a 8 inch tail for sewing, ch 2, 6 sc in first ch. Do not join. (6 sts)

Rounds 2: Sc in each st around. (6 sts)

Round 3: Scdec 3 times (3 sts)

*Ch 8, slipstitch in same st. Repeat from * twice. Do not join. Fasten off , leaving an 8 inch tail for sewing.

Wind the black yarn around your pinkie about 3 times. Tuck this little wad of yarn inside the ball. Using the beginning tail weave yarn in and out the scdec sts, and sew the ball closed. Put the ball through the ch 10 loop of first half of frog. Using tails sew to right front


Close up of frog.





Monday, May 10, 2010

Little Girl's Shell Vest


THANK YOU Virginia and Vanessa for testing this pattern.

Even though I assigned sizes to this pattern, it will fit a wider range. No sleeves to get to short and no button on the front to get too tight.

SIZES:
0-6 and 9-18 months

MATERIALS:
0-6 months
Sports weight yarn approximately 2 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle

9-18 month
Worsted weight yarn approximately 4 ounces
US size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle

SPECIAL STITCHES:
Small Shell:
= Sm shell = (dc, ch1, dc)
Large Shell: = Lg shell = (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc)
Picot: = Ch 3, slipstitch in third chain from hook
Sc Dec: = Insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next st, draw up a lp (3 loops on hook), YO and draw through all 3 loops.

NOTES:
1. Read pattern all the way through before beginning.
2. The pattern for both sizes is the same. Use the yarn and hook in the materials list to achieve the different sizes.

INSTRUCTIONS:
With yarn and hook for the size you want to crochet chain 41.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook (do not count unworked chs as first dc) and in the next 4 ch, sm shell in next ch, dc in next 7 ch, sm shell in next ch, dc in next 11 ch, sm shell in next ch, dc in next 7 ch, sm shell in next ch, dc in last 5. Ch 2, turn. (43 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 2: Dc in 6 sts. sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 9 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 13 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 9 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 6 sts. Ch 2, turn. (51 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 3: Dc in 7 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 11 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in next 15 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 11 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 7 sts. Ch 2, turn. (59 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 4: Dc in 8 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 13 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 17 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 13 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 8 sts. Ch 2, turn. (67 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 5: Dc in 9 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 15 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 19 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 15 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 9 sts. Ch 2, turn. (75 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 6: Dc in 10 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 17 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 21 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 17 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 10 sts. Ch 2, turn. (83 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 7: Dc in 11 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 19 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 23 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in 19 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp, dc in last 11 sts. Ch 2, turn. (91 dc and 4 ch 1 sp)

Row 8: Dc in 2 sts. *skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, repeat from * once, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in 2 sts. *skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, repeat from * 4 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in 1 st. *skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, repeat from * 6 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 1 st, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in 2 sts. *skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, repeat from * 4 times, skip 2, dc in 2 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in 2 sts. *skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, repeat from * once, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (21 lg shells, 4 sm shells)

Row 9: Dc in 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * once, skip 2 sts, dc in 3 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in next 3 sts. skip 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * 4 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 3 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * 6 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in next 3 sts. skip 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * 4 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 3 sts, sm shell in ch 1 sp.

Dc in 3 sts. *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * once, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (21 lg shells, 4 sm shells)

Row 10: Dc in 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * once, skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, skip 2 sts, dc in 1 st, fold sleeve matching up ch 1 sps, dc over both ch 1 sps.

Dc in 3 st, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * 6 times, , skip 2 sts, dc in 3 sts, fold sleeve matching up ch 1 sps, dc over both ch 1 sps.

Dc in 1 st, skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st. *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * once, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (13 lg shells)

Row 11: Dc in 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * twice, skip 3 sts, lg shell in next st, skip 3 sts, lg shell in next st, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * 6 times, skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, skip 2 sts, lg shell in next st, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * twice, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (17 lg shells)

Row 12-13: Dc in 2 sts, *lg shell in lg shell, repeat from * 16 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. . (17 lg shells)

Row 14: Dc in 2 sts, *5 dc, in lg shell, repeat from * 16 times, skip 2 sts, dc in 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (17 5 dc groups)

Row 15: (Right Side) Ch 2, slipstitch in 3rd ch from hook, sc in 4 sts, picot, *sc in 5 sts, picot, repeat from * 15 times. Sc in 5 sts, picot, sc in same st.

EDGING:
Row 1: Work 25 sc up right front. Ch 1, sc in same st,
sc in 5 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts,
sc in 6 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts,
sc in 10 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts,
sc in 5 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts, sc in last 5 sts.
Ch 1, sc in same st, 26 sc down the left front, picot, join with a slipstitch in first sc of edging. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in the front loop only of each st.

Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGING:
Attach yarn with a sc at under arm. *Sc to ch 1 sp, sc, picot, sc in same sp, repeat from * 4 times, sc in remaining sts, slipstitch in first sc to join.
Fasten off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Weave in ends.

Saturday, May 08, 2010

TODDLER GIRL'S SHORT SLEEVED PULLOVER


This sweater is yet another adaptation based on the 5 Hour Baby Sweater originally posted on Knit List. There are several adaptations on Bev’s Country Cottage.

SIZE: 12-18 months

Garment measures 25 inches around

MATERIALS:
Approximately 4 ounces worsted weight yarn
Size US 10 (6.0 mm) circular knitting needle
Markers
Tapestry needle

GAUGE:
Approximately 4 sts to 1 inch
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. This pullover can fit a child up to about 4 years old just by making the body a few inches longer before starting the hem ribbing.
3. When joining the two edges I cut the yarn, so that the garter stitch stays uniform. If you don’t cut the yarn, but just continue across to the other edge you will have two knit or purl rows together and it does show a little. It bugged me, so I tried several ways of fixing it. The only thing I found to work satisfactorily was to cut the yarn and start over. A side benefit of doing it this way is I was able to reinforce the join with one of the tails.

SPECIAL STITCHES:
M1: Make a backward loop and place on right hand needle.
Increase (inc) 1 st in next st: Knit into front and back of that stitch.

DIRECTIONS:
Starting at the neck edge, cast on 37 stitches, using “knitted on cast-on”.
YOKE:
Rows 1 - 4: Knit. (37 sts)

Row 5:
K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (37 sts)
(Always keep first 5 and last 5 sts in 'knit' even on p row.)

Row 6:
K5, * increase 1 in next st, K1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, end with increase 1, K5. (51 sts)

Row 7: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (51 sts)

Row 8: K5 *K2tog. Repeat from * ending K6 (31 sts)

Row 9: K5 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K6 (51 sts)

Row 10: K5, *inc 1 in next st., K2, repeat from * to last 7 sts, ending inc. 1, K6. (65 sts)

Row 11: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (65 sts)

Row 12: K5, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K6 (38 st)

Row 13: K5 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K6 (65 sts)

Row 14: K6 *inc in next st, K3, repeat from * to last 7 sts, ending with inc. 1, K6. (79 sts)

Row 15:
K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (79 sts)

Row 16:
K5, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K6 (45 st)

Row 17: K5 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K6 (79 sts)

Row 18: K6 *increase in next st, K4, repeat from * to last 8 sts., ending increase 1, knit 7. (93 sts)

Row 19: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (93 sts)

Row 20:
K5, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K6 (52 st)

Row 21:
K5 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K6 (93 sts)

Row 22:
K7*increase in next st, K5, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (107 sts)

Row 23:
K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (107 sts)

Row 24:
K5, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K6 (59 st)

Row 25: K5 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K6 (107 sts)

Row 26: K8*increase in next st, K6, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (121 sts)

Row 27: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (121 sts)

Row 28: K5, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K6 (66 st)

Row 29: K5, *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K6 (121 sts)

Row 30:
You will now be placing markers to show positions of fronts, back, and sleeves:K6, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1,K1, pm (23 sts for front),K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, pm (26 sts for sleeve),K1, M1, (K7, M1)five times, K1, pm (43 sts for back),K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, pm (26 sts for other sleeve),K1, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K6 (23 sts for other front).

Row 31: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (141 sts)

Row 32: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (149 sts)

Row 33: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (149 sts)

Row 34: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (157 sts)

Row 35: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (157 sts)

Row 36: K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to next marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts. (157 sts)
Cut yarn, but do not fasten off.

From now on you will be working in rounds, but we will keep the same row/round sequence.

JOINING FRONTS:
Round 37: Do not turn, slip the 5 sts just knit to the lefthand needle. PM (this marker will designate beginning of rounds). Purl 10 sts, K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K remaining sts to round marker. (157 sts)

Round 38: K to sleeve marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts to round marker. (157 sts)

Round 39: Remove sleeve markers as you come to them on this row. P 10, knit to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after the next marker; knit back stitches to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after marker, knit to round marker. (93 sts)



PULLOVER BODY:
Body Round 1: (RS) Knit across front sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across back sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across front sts to round marker. (97 sts)


Body Round 2: P 10. *K to 1 st before cast on sts, K2tog twice, repeat from * once. K to round marker (93 sts)

Body Round 3:
Knit. (93 sts)

Body Round 4:
P 10, Knit to marker. (93 sts)

Body Rounds 5-25:
Knit. (93 sts)
Should measure approximately 5 inches from underarm.

HEM:

(Optional switch to size 8 (5.0 mm) circular needle)
Knit 28, K2tog (if you have an even number of sts, don’t k2tog), PM (this marker will now designate beginning of rounds).

Ribbed Rows 26-31:
Work K 1, P 1 ribbing.

Bind off in knit.

Weave in ends.

BABY GIRL'S SHORT SLEEVED PULLOVER


This sweater is yet another adaptation of the 5 Hour Baby Sweater originally posted on Knit List. There are several adaptations on Bev’s Country Cottage.

SIZE: Garment measures 20 inches around


MATERIALS:
Approximately 3 ounces worsted weight yarn
Size US 10 (6.0 mm) 24 inch circular needle
Markers
Tapestry needle
GAUGE: Approximately 4 sts to 1 inch
SPECIAL STITCHES:
M1: Make a backward loop and place on right hand needle.
Increase (inc) 1 st in next st: Knit into front and back of that stitch.
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Sweater can be knit on a 29 inch circular, but is rather tight, the 24 inch is easier to work with.
3. When joining the two front edges I cut the yarn, so that the garter stitch stays uniform. If you don’t cut the yarn, but just continue across to the other edge you will have two knit or purl rows together and it does show a little. It bugged me, so I tried several ways of fixing it. The only thing I found to work satisfactorily was to cut the yarn and start over. A side benefit of doing it this way is I was able to reinforce the join with one of the tails.
INSTRUCTIONS:Cast on 33 sts for neck edge
Always keep first and last 3 stitches in "knit" even on a "P" row.
Rows 1-4: K. (33 sts)

Row 5: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (33 sts)

Row 6: K3, * increase 1 in next st, K1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, end with increase 1, K3. (47 sts)
Row 7: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (47 st)

Row 8: K3 *K2tog. Repeat from * ending K4. (27)

Row 9: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4 (47 st)

Row 10: K4 * inc 1 st in next st, K2. Repeat from * end inc 1, K3 (61 sts)

Row 11: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (61 sts)

Row 12: K3, *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K4. (34 st)

Row 13: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4. (62 st)

Row 14: K4 *inc 1 in next st, K3. Repeat from * ending with inc 1, K4. (75 st)

Row 15: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (75 sts)
Row 16: K3 *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K4 (41 st)
Row 17: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4 (75 st)
Row 18: K4 *inc 1 in next st, K4. Repeat from * to end, ending with inc 1, K5. (89)
Row 19: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (89)
Row 20: K3 *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K4. (48 st)
Row 21: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4. (89 st)
Row 22: K5*, increase in next st, K5, repeat from * to last 6 sts, ending inc 1, knit 5. (103 sts)
Row 23: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (103)
Row 24: K3 *K2 tog. Repeat from * ending K4. (55 st)
Row 25: K3 *K1, insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this st. Repeat from * across, ending K4. (103 sts)
Row 26: You will now be placing markers (PM) to show positions of fronts, back, and sleeves:
K6, M1, K5, M1, K5, M1, K1, PM (20 sts for front),
K1, M1, K6, M1, K5, M1, K6, M1, K1, PM (23 sts for sleeve),
K1, M1, (K6, M1) twice, K5, M1, (K6, M1) twice, K1, PM (37 sts for back),
K1, M1, K6, M1, K5, M1, K6, M1, K1, PM (23 sts for other sleeve),
K1, M1, K5, M1, K5, M1, K6 (20 sts for other front).
Row 27: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (123 sts)
Row 28: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (131 sts)

Row 29: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (131 sts)
Row 30: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (139 sts)

Row 31: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (139 sts)

Row 32: K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to next marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts. (139 sts)
Cut yarn, but do not fasten off.


From now on you will be working in rounds, but we will keep the same row/round sequence.

JOINING FRONTS:
Round 33:
Do not turn. Slip the 3 sts just knit to the left hand needle. PM (this marker will designate beginning of rounds). Purl 6 sts, K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K remaining sts to round marker. (139 sts)
Round 34: K to sleeve marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts to round marker. (139 sts)
Round 35: Remove sleeve markers as you come to them on this row. P 6, knit to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after the next marker; knit back stitches to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after marker, knit to round marker. (81 sts)




PULLOVER BODY:
Body Round 1: Knit across front sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across back sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across front sts to round marker. (85 sts)


Body Round 2: P 6. *K to 1 st before cast on sts, K2tog twice, repeat from * once. K to round marker. (81 sts)
Body Round 3: Knit. (81 sts)
Body Round 4: P 6, Knit to marker. (81 sts)
Body Rounds 5-18: Knit. (81 sts)
Should measure approximately 3.5 inches from underarm.

HEM:(Optional switch to size 8 (5.0 mm) circular needle)
Remove marker, knit 21, K2tog (if you have an even number of sts, don’t k2tog), PM (this marker will now designate beginning of rounds).
Ribbed Rows 19-23: Work K 1, P 1 ribbing.


Bind off in knit.


Weave in ends.

Friday, May 07, 2010

BABY SHORT SLEEVED PULLOVER



This sweater is yet another adaptation of Gail Bable’s 5 Hour Baby Boy Sweater, which was based on the 5 Hour Baby Sweater originally posted on Knit List. There are several adaptations on Bev’s Country Cottage.

SIZE: Garment measures 20 inches around

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn approximately 3 ounces
Size US 10 (6.0 mm) 24 inch circular knitting needle
Markers
Tapestry needle

GAUGE: about 4 sts to 1 in
SPECIAL STITCHES:
M1:
Make a backward loop and place on right hand needle.

Inc 1 st in next st: Knit into front and back of that stitch.

NOTES:


1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.

2. I used a 24 inch circular needle and Caron One Pound Cream.
3. I switched to the optional US size 8 needle for the ribbing.



INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting at the neck edge, cast on 33 stitches, using “knitted on cast-on”
YOKE:
Rows 1-4:
Knit. (33 sts)

Row 5: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (33 sts)
(Always keep first 3 and last 3 sts in 'knit' even on p row.)

Row 6: K3, * inc 1 in next st, K1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, end with inc 1, K3. (47 sts)

Row 7: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (47 sts)

Row 8: Knit. (47 sts)

Row 9: Knit. (47 sts)

Row 10: K3, *inc 1 in next st, K2, repeat from *, ending inc 1, K4. (61 sts)

Row 11: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (61 sts)

Row 12: Knit. (61 sts)

Row 13: Knit. (61 sts)

Row 14: K4, *inc 1 in next st, K3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, ending with inc 1, K4. (75 sts)

Row 15: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (75 sts)

Row 16: Knit. (75 sts)

Row 17: Knit. (75 sts)

Row 18: K4, *inc 1 in next st, K4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, ending inc 1, knit 5. (89 sts)

Row 19: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (89 sts)

Row 20: Knit. (89 sts)

Row 21: Knit. (89 sts)

Row 22: K5, *inc 1 in next st, K5, repeat from * to end of row. (103 sts)

Row 23: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (103 sts)

Row 24: Knit. (103 sts)

Row 25: Knit. (103 sts)

Row 26: You will now be placing markers (PM) to show positions of fronts, back, and sleeves:
K6, M1, K5, M1, K5, M1,K1, PM (20 sts for front),
K1, M1, K6, M1, K5, M1, K6, M1, K1, PM (23 sts for sleeve),
K1, M1, (K6, M1) twice, K5, M1, (K6, M1) twice, K1, PM (37 sts for back),
K1, M1, K6, M1, K5, M1, K6, M1, K1, PM (23 sts for other sleeve),
K1, M1, K5, M1, K5, M1, K6 (20 sts for other front). (123 sts)

Row 27: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (123 sts)

Row 28: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (131 sts)

Row 29: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (131 sts)

Row 30: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (139 sts)

Row 31: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (139 sts)


Row 32: K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to next marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts. (139 sts)

Cut yarn, but do not fasten off.

From now on you will be working in rounds, but we will keep the same row/round sequence.
JOINING FRONTS:
Round 33:
Do not turn. Slip the 3 sts just knit to the left hand needle. PM (this marker will designate beginning of rounds). Purl 6 sts, K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K remaining sts to round marker. (139 sts)

Round 34:
K to sleeve marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts to round marker. (139 sts)

Round 35:
Remove sleeve markers as you come to them on this row. P 6, knit to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after the next marker; knit back stitches to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after marker, knit to round marker. (81 sts)



PULLOVER BODY:


Body Round 1: Knit across front sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across back sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across front sts to round marker. (85 sts)

Body Round 2: P 6. *K to 1 st before cast on sts, K2tog twice, repeat from * once. K to round marker. (81 sts)

Body Round 3:
Knit. (81 sts)

Body Round 4:
P 6, Knit to marker. (81 sts)

Body Rounds 5-18:
Knit. (81 sts)
Should measure approximately 3.5 inches from underarm.

HEM:
(Optional switch to size 8 (5.0 mm) circular needle)
Remove marker, knit 21, K2tog (if you have an even number of sts, don’t k2tog), PM (this marker will now designate beginning of rounds).

Ribbed Rows 19-23:
Work K 1, P 1 ribbing.

Bind off in knit.

Weave in ends.

TODDLER SHORT SLEEVED PULLOVER



Thank you Virginia for testing this pattern.
This sweater is yet another adaptation of Gail Bable’s 5 Hour Baby Boy Sweater, which was based on the 5 Hour Baby Sweater originally posted on Knit List. There are several adaptations on Bev’s Country Cottage.

SIZE: 12-18 months

Garment measures 25 inches

MATERIALS:


Approximately 4.0 ounces worsted weight
Size US 10 (6.0 mm) 24 inch circular knitting needle

Markers
Tapestry needle

GAUGE: Approximately 4 sts to 1 inch
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. This pullover can fit a child up to about 4 years old just by making the body a few inches longer before starting the hem ribbing.
3. When joining the two edges I cut the yarn, so that the garter stitch stays uniform. If you don’t cut the yarn, but just continue across to the other edge you will have two knit or purl rows together and it does show a little. It bugged me, so I tried several ways of fixing it. The only thing I found to work satisfactorily was to cut the yarn and start over. A side benefit of doing it this way is I was able to reinforce the join with one of the tails.
SPECIAL STITCHES:
M1: Make a backward loop and place on right hand needle.
Increase (inc) 1 st in next st: Knit into front and back of that stitch.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting at the neck edge, cast on 37 stitches, using “knitted on cast-on”.
YOKE:
Rows 1 - 4: Knit. (37 sts)

Row 5: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (37 sts)

Row 6: K5, * increase 1 in next st, K1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, end with increase 1, K5. (51 sts)
Row 7: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (51 sts)
Row 8: Knit. (51 sts)
Row 9: Knit. (51 sts)
Row 10: K5, *inc 1 in next st., K2, repeat from * to last 7 sts, ending inc. 1, K6. (65 sts)
Row 11: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (65 sts)
Row 12: Knit. (65 sts)

Row 13:
Knit. (65 sts)
Row 14: K6 *increase in next st, K3, repeat from * to last 7 sts, ending with inc. 1, K6. (79 sts)
Row 15: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (79 sts)
Row 16: Knit. (79 sts)
Row 17: Knit. (79 sts)
Row 18: K6 *increase in next st, K4, repeat from * to last 8 sts., ending increase 1, knit 7. (93 sts)

Row 19:
K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (93 sts)
Row 20: Knit. (93 sts)
Row 21: Knit. (93 sts)
Row 22: K7*increase in next st, K5, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (107 sts)
Row 23: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (107 sts)
Row 24: Knit. (107 sts)
Row 25: Knit. (107 sts)

Row 26: K8*increase in next st, K6, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (121 sts)
Row 27: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (121 sts)
Row 28: Knit. (121 sts)
Row 29: Knit. (121 sts)

Row 30:
You will now be placing markers (PM) to show positions of fronts, back, and sleeves:K6, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1,K1, PM (23 sts for front),K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, PM (26 sts for sleeve),K1, M1, (K7, M1)five times, K1, PM (43 sts for back),K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, PM (26 sts for other sleeve),K1, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K6 (23 sts for other front).
Row 31: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (141 sts)
Row 32: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (149 sts)
Row 33: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (149 sts)
Row 34: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (157 sts)
Row 35: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (157 sts)
Row 36: K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts. (157 sts)

Cut yarn, but do not fasten off.

From now on you will be working in rounds, but we will keep the same row/round sequence.
JOINING FRONTS:Round 37: Do not turn, slip the 5 sts just knit to the lefthand needle. PM (this marker will designate beginning of rounds). Purl 10 sts, K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K remaining sts to round marker. (157 sts)
Round 38: K to sleeve marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker. K to marker, K1, P1 across sleeve sts to next marker, K remaining sts to round marker. (157 sts)
Round 39: Remove sleeve markers as you come to them on this row. P 10, knit to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after the next marker; knit back stitches to 1 stitch before marker, bind off in knit that stitch, sleeve stitches and 1 stitch after marker, knit to round marker. (93 sts)

PULLOVER BODY:
Body Round 1: (RS) Knit across front sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across back sts, cast on 2 sts, knit across front sts to round marker. (97 sts)
Body Round 2: P 10. *K to 1 st before cast on sts, K2tog twice, repeat from * once. K to round marker (93 sts)Body Round 3: Knit. (93 sts)
Body Round 4: P 10, Knit to marker. (93 sts)
Body Rounds 5-25: Knit. (93 sts)
Should measure approximately 5 inches from underarm.
HEM:
(Optional switch to size 8 (5.0 mm) circular needle)
Knit 28, K2tog (if you have an even number of sts, don’t k2tog), PM (this marker will now designate beginning of rounds).
Ribbed Rows 26-31: Work K 1, P 1 ribbing.

Bind off in knit.

Weave in ends.

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