Monday, March 31, 2008
WORLDS EASIEST CROCHETED AFGHAN (C)
WORLD’S EASIEST CROCHETED AFGHANSIZE: 40 x 56 inches, excluding fringe
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE: Unimportant
NOTES:
1. Amount of yarn will depend on how large you make your afghan. This one took 32 ounces.
2. Afghan in photo was crocheted with two rows of each color. It looks nice worked with only one row of each color.
3. Rather than count stitches, just make a long chain and when you crochet the first row, crochet as far as you like for the length of your afghan. Cut off remaining chains.
4. When starting and ending rows leave an 8 inch tail to be included in fringe.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Leaving an 8 inch tail, chain 211 stitches for foundation. This will be about 60 inches. Want your afghan longer? Start with a longer chain.
Row 1: Hdc in third stitch from hook and in each remaining chain. If changing colors fasten off. Remember to leave an 8 inch tail.
Row 2 and all remaining rows: Turn. Join new color, if needed, with a slipstitch. Ch 2, hdc in blo (back loop only) of each hdc, being sure to go into first stitch.
Change colors as you like. Making afghan the width you want.
To finish, work a row of slip stitches in last row. This stabilizes the edge and makes it resemble the beginning edge.
FRINGE:
To cut yarn pieces for fringe, wrap around a book or other object about 8 inches in height. Cut on one edge so that you have umpteen pieces of yarn about 16 inches long.
Fold three pieces of fringe in half. Using your crochet hook, pull the loop through between hdc on end of afghan. If that space has a yarn tail, pull the tail and the ends of the fringe pieces through the loop. Tighten up and repeat across in every hdc on both ends of afghan. Tie an overhand knot close to the knot formed by pulling the ends thorough the loop.
When your fringe is complete, lay the afghan flat and smooth out the fringe. Using a piece of cardboard as a guide, trim the fringe evenly.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
FASHION DOLL BABYDOLL PAJAMAS (C)
FASHION DOLL BABYDOLL PAJAMAS AND SHORTIE GOWN
MATERIALS:
Lion Brand Baby Soft small amount
Size F ((4.0 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE:
5 sc = 1 inch, 6 sc rows = 2 inches
NOTES:
MATERIALS:
Lion Brand Baby Soft small amount
Size F ((4.0 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE:
5 sc = 1 inch, 6 sc rows = 2 inches
NOTES:
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. Pull your slipstitches tight.
BABYDOLL TOP:
Starting at the neckline ch 24, being careful not to twist the chain, join into a ring with a slipstitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (24 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending 3 sc in next st, sc in last 3 sts. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in 3 sts, skip 9 sts, 2 sc in 7 sts, skip 9, 2 sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (28 sts)
Round 5: Ch 5, dc in same st, *skip 1 st, dc, ch 2. dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Round 6-9: Slipstitch into first ch 2 space, ch 5, dc in same sp, *dc, ch 2. dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Slipstitch in next ch 2 space, fasten off.
Weave in ends.
PANTY:
Ch 11
Row 1: Sc in 2nd st from hook and each across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Row 2: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Row 3: *Sc in next st. dec over next 2 sts. Repeat from * to last st. Sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 4: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 5: Sc in next st, *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * across.. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Row 6: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Row 7: Dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (3 sts)
Rows 8-10: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (3 sts)
Row 11: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Rows 12: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Row 13: Sc in first st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 14: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 15: Sc in first st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Rows 16-17: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
You should have an hour glass shaped piece. We are going to join it at the top to complete the panty portion of her pajamas.
Round 18: Sc across 10 sc fold up the hour glass and crochet across the beginning 10 sts. Join to first sc of this round with a slip stitch.
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join to first sc with a slipstitch.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
The panty fits loosely slightly below the waist, so that it can slip over the hips.
SHORTY GOWN:
Starting at the neckline ch 24, being careful not to twist the chain, join into a ring with a slipstitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (24 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending 3 sc in next st, sc in last 3 sts. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in 3 sts, skip 9 sts, 2 sc in 7 sts, skip 9, 2 sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (28 sts)
Round 5: Ch 5, dc in same st, *skip 1 st, dc, ch 2. dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Round 6-11: Slipstitch into first ch 2 space, ch 5, dc in same sp, *dc, ch 2. dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Round 12: Slipstitch into first ch 2 space, ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same space. *2 dc, ch 2. 2 dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of chain 3.
Slipstitch in next ch 2 space, fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Starting at the neckline ch 24, being careful not to twist the chain, join into a ring with a slipstitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (24 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending 3 sc in next st, sc in last 3 sts. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in 3 sts, skip 9 sts, 2 sc in 7 sts, skip 9, 2 sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (28 sts)
Round 5: Ch 5, dc in same st, *skip 1 st, dc, ch 2. dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Round 6-9: Slipstitch into first ch 2 space, ch 5, dc in same sp, *dc, ch 2. dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Slipstitch in next ch 2 space, fasten off.
Weave in ends.
PANTY:
Ch 11
Row 1: Sc in 2nd st from hook and each across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Row 2: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Row 3: *Sc in next st. dec over next 2 sts. Repeat from * to last st. Sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 4: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 5: Sc in next st, *dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * across.. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Row 6: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Row 7: Dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (3 sts)
Rows 8-10: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (3 sts)
Row 11: 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Rows 12: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (5 sts)
Row 13: Sc in first st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 14: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 15: Sc in first st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Rows 16-17: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
You should have an hour glass shaped piece. We are going to join it at the top to complete the panty portion of her pajamas.
Round 18: Sc across 10 sc fold up the hour glass and crochet across the beginning 10 sts. Join to first sc of this round with a slip stitch.
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join to first sc with a slipstitch.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
The panty fits loosely slightly below the waist, so that it can slip over the hips.
SHORTY GOWN:
Starting at the neckline ch 24, being careful not to twist the chain, join into a ring with a slipstitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (24 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending 3 sc in next st, sc in last 3 sts. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join in first sc with a slipstitch. (32 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in 3 sts, skip 9 sts, 2 sc in 7 sts, skip 9, 2 sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (28 sts)
Round 5: Ch 5, dc in same st, *skip 1 st, dc, ch 2. dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Round 6-11: Slipstitch into first ch 2 space, ch 5, dc in same sp, *dc, ch 2. dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in 3rd st of chain 5.
Round 12: Slipstitch into first ch 2 space, ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same space. *2 dc, ch 2. 2 dc in next ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of chain 3.
Slipstitch in next ch 2 space, fasten off.
Weave in ends.
APRIL WAVY BAG (C)
APRIL WAVY BAG (C)
[unfelted version]
MATERIALS:
Worsted Weight yarn, Main 3.5 ounces, Contrast 3/4 ounce
Size H (5.0 mm) and G (4.5mm) crochet hooks
APPROXIMATE MEASUREMENTS:
Height 11 inches, Circumference at upper edge 25
NOTES:
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. The bag should be worked in a fairly tight stitch. You may need to use a different sized hook to get a suitable stitch.
3. I cut the yarn for the color changes. It could be carried up without cutting, but since I wasn’t going to line my bag I cut the yarn and wove in the ends.
4. When joining a new color, complete the joining slip stitch with the new color.
5. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: With H hook and main color, ch 2, 9 hdc into second stitch from hook. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (9 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (18 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (24)
Round 4: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (32 hdc)
Round 5: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join. with slipstitch in first hdc. (40 hdc)
Round 6: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (48 hdc)
Round 7: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (56 hdc)
Round 8: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (64 hdc)
Round 9: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (72 hdc)
Round 10: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (80 hdc)
Rounds 11 to 12: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (80 hdc)
Round 13-14: Still working with main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 15-16: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 17-18: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around,, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 19-20: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 21-22: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 23-24: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Change to main color and work remainder of bag.
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 26: Ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Rounds 27: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 28: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 29: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *Ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in top of first st. [40 sc, 8 ch 5 loops]
Round 30: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *5 sc in loop, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 5 sc in loop, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [80 sc]
Round 31: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and next st. *2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 7 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in 5 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [104 sc]
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
[unfelted version]
MATERIALS:
Worsted Weight yarn, Main 3.5 ounces, Contrast 3/4 ounce
Size H (5.0 mm) and G (4.5mm) crochet hooks
APPROXIMATE MEASUREMENTS:
Height 11 inches, Circumference at upper edge 25
NOTES:
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. The bag should be worked in a fairly tight stitch. You may need to use a different sized hook to get a suitable stitch.
3. I cut the yarn for the color changes. It could be carried up without cutting, but since I wasn’t going to line my bag I cut the yarn and wove in the ends.
4. When joining a new color, complete the joining slip stitch with the new color.
5. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: With H hook and main color, ch 2, 9 hdc into second stitch from hook. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (9 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (18 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (24)
Round 4: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (32 hdc)
Round 5: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join. with slipstitch in first hdc. (40 hdc)
Round 6: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (48 hdc)
Round 7: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (56 hdc)
Round 8: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (64 hdc)
Round 9: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (72 hdc)
Round 10: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (80 hdc)
Rounds 11 to 12: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (80 hdc)
Round 13-14: Still working with main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 15-16: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 17-18: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around,, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 19-20: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 21-22: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 23-24: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Change to main color and work remainder of bag.
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in 2 sts, *hdc in 5 sts, sc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 5 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 26: Ch 1, hdc in 2 sts, *sc in 5 sts, hdc in 5 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 5 sts, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Rounds 27: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 28: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (80 sts)
Round 29: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *Ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in top of first st. [40 sc, 8 ch 5 loops]
Round 30: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *5 sc in loop, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 5 sc in loop, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [80 sc]
Round 31: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and next st. *2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 7 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in 5 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [104 sc]
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
CORD FOR STRAP: Make 1 with main color
Round 1: With G hook ch 2, 5 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join.
Round 2-until 64 inches or desired length: Sc in back loop of next sc. Continue working sc in back loop until cord is 64 inches long. You will be working from the inside of a tube.
Weave tail through the 5 sc and pull snug.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Weave cord in and out of loops and tie ends in an overhand knot.
APRIL FELTED WAVY BAG (C)
FELTED WAVY BAG
MATERIALS:
100% Feltable Wool 8.25 ounces (I used 6.5 main color and 1.75 contrast)
Size K (6.5 mm) and I (5.5 mm) crochet hooks
Zippered pillow case
Plastic bags (like Wal-Mart uses)
Towels
APPROXIMATE MEASUREMENTS:
Before felting: Height 20 inches, Circumference at upper edge 36 inches, Cord 84 inches
After felting: Height 10 inches, Circumference at upper edge 24 inches, Cord 64 inches
NOTES:
1. Read all the instructions before beginning.
2. When joining a new color, complete the joining slip stitch with the new color
3. The bag in photo was made using Patons Classic Wool and some hand dyed Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool.
4. When I used Patons Classic Wool and Patons SWS, the SWS ran out a few stitches before I completed the 6th section of contrasting yarn. I just changed over to the main color and continued with the pattern. After felting it wasn’t really noticeable.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: With K hook and main color, ch 2, 12 hdc into second stitch from hook. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (32 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (40 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (48 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (56 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (64 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (72 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (80 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 9 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (88 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 10 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (96 sts)
Rounds 12 to 15: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (96 sts)
Round 16-17: Still working with main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 18-19: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 20-21: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 22-23: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 24-25: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 26-27: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 28-29: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 30-31: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 32-33: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 34-35: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 36-37: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 38-39: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Change to main color and work remainder of bag.
Round 40: Ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 41: Ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 42: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 43: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 44: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *Ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around ending with ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in top of first st. [48 sc, 12 ch 4 loops]
Round 45: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *4 sc in loop, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around ending with 4 sc in loop, sc in 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [96 sts]
Round 46: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and next st. *2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [120 sts]
Weave in ends. When felting it isn’t necessary to be neat when weaving in ends. After felting you can trip off any nubs.
MATERIALS:
100% Feltable Wool 8.25 ounces (I used 6.5 main color and 1.75 contrast)
Size K (6.5 mm) and I (5.5 mm) crochet hooks
Zippered pillow case
Plastic bags (like Wal-Mart uses)
Towels
APPROXIMATE MEASUREMENTS:
Before felting: Height 20 inches, Circumference at upper edge 36 inches, Cord 84 inches
After felting: Height 10 inches, Circumference at upper edge 24 inches, Cord 64 inches
NOTES:
1. Read all the instructions before beginning.
2. When joining a new color, complete the joining slip stitch with the new color
3. The bag in photo was made using Patons Classic Wool and some hand dyed Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool.
4. When I used Patons Classic Wool and Patons SWS, the SWS ran out a few stitches before I completed the 6th section of contrasting yarn. I just changed over to the main color and continued with the pattern. After felting it wasn’t really noticeable.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: With K hook and main color, ch 2, 12 hdc into second stitch from hook. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (32 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (40 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (48 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (56 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 6 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (64 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 7 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (72 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 8 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (80 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 9 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (88 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *1 hdc in next 10 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in first hdc. (96 sts)
Rounds 12 to 15: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (96 sts)
Round 16-17: Still working with main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 18-19: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 20-21: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 22-23: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 24-25: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 26-27: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 28-29: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 30-31: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 32-33: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 34-35: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 36-37: Change to main color, ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 38-39: Change to contrasting color, ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Change to main color and work remainder of bag.
Round 40: Ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *hdc in 6 sts, sc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with hdc in 6 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 41: Ch 1, hdc in 3 sts, *sc in 6 sts, hdc in 6 sts, repeat from * around, ending with sc in 6 sts, hdc in 3 sts. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 42: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 43: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in first st. (96 sts)
Round 44: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *Ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around ending with ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in top of first st. [48 sc, 12 ch 4 loops]
Round 45: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. *4 sc in loop, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around ending with 4 sc in loop, sc in 3 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [96 sts]
Round 46: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and next st. *2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts. Repeat from * around, ending with 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in 4 sts. Join with slipstitch in first st. [120 sts]
Weave in ends. When felting it isn’t necessary to be neat when weaving in ends. After felting you can trip off any nubs.
CORD FOR STRAP: Make 1 with main color
Round 1: With I hook ch 2, 4 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join.
Round 2-until 84 inches long: Sc in back loop of next sc. Continue working sc in back loop until cord is 84 inches long. You will be working from the inside of a tube.
Fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Weave tail through the 4 sc and pull snug. Tuck tails inside cord.
You can now felt the bag and cord.
FELTING/FULLING THE BAG:
Put the crocheted bag into a zippered pillow case. This is necessary to protect the pump in your washing machine.
Put the pillow case and a couple pair of old jeans into the washing machine on “hot” cycle, small load, fastest agitation. Add a very small amount of liquid dish washing soap (not dishwasher soap).
Let the machine agitate for 10 minutes. Stop the machine and check the progress of the bag. If it’s still too big, reset to the beginning of the wash cycle. Recheck it every 5 minutes, as it can felt in a hurry at this stage. Don’t let the washer spin. It takes 16 minutes in my washer. But times vary by machine and water temperature.
Remove the bag from the machine and rinse in a sink with cold water. Squeeze as much water out as possible without wringing. Wrap in a towel to absorb excess water.
Then shape it as you desire. I block mine by lining the bag with plastic bags and filling with raw beans. Here’s what I do; place the bag on a dry towel, and put three bags inside each other and inside the bag. I use three because sometimes those Wal-Mart bags have holes in the bottom. I figure three of them will keep the beans inside the plastic bags not against the wool. Fill the bags, inside your bag, about half full of raw beans. Putting your fingers through opposite loops, bounce the bag up and down a few times to compact the beans. Go all the way around bouncing with your fingers in all the loops. Keep adding beans and bouncing until it is full all the way to the upper edge. Change the towel to a dry one. Now wait for the bag to dry.
When dry, trim any loose ends. Weave the cord in and out of the loops and tie ends in an overhand knot.
You can now felt the bag and cord.
FELTING/FULLING THE BAG:
Put the crocheted bag into a zippered pillow case. This is necessary to protect the pump in your washing machine.
Put the pillow case and a couple pair of old jeans into the washing machine on “hot” cycle, small load, fastest agitation. Add a very small amount of liquid dish washing soap (not dishwasher soap).
Let the machine agitate for 10 minutes. Stop the machine and check the progress of the bag. If it’s still too big, reset to the beginning of the wash cycle. Recheck it every 5 minutes, as it can felt in a hurry at this stage. Don’t let the washer spin. It takes 16 minutes in my washer. But times vary by machine and water temperature.
Remove the bag from the machine and rinse in a sink with cold water. Squeeze as much water out as possible without wringing. Wrap in a towel to absorb excess water.
Then shape it as you desire. I block mine by lining the bag with plastic bags and filling with raw beans. Here’s what I do; place the bag on a dry towel, and put three bags inside each other and inside the bag. I use three because sometimes those Wal-Mart bags have holes in the bottom. I figure three of them will keep the beans inside the plastic bags not against the wool. Fill the bags, inside your bag, about half full of raw beans. Putting your fingers through opposite loops, bounce the bag up and down a few times to compact the beans. Go all the way around bouncing with your fingers in all the loops. Keep adding beans and bouncing until it is full all the way to the upper edge. Change the towel to a dry one. Now wait for the bag to dry.
When dry, trim any loose ends. Weave the cord in and out of the loops and tie ends in an overhand knot.
Saturday, March 29, 2008
FASHION DOLL SLEEPING BAG (C)
FASHION DOLL SLEEPING BAG MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn (2.2 ounces)
Small amount of Polyfil
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows = 1 inch
SIZE:
About 5 by 13 inches including pillow
NOTES:
1. Pillow and sleeping bag are worked in continuous rounds.
2. For the bag section, after working three rounds of single crochet, you can work the remainder in what ever stitch pattern you like. The Beanie Baby Sleeping Bag has instructions for using a shell stitch.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting with pillow, ch 18
Worsted weight yarn (2.2 ounces)
Small amount of Polyfil
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows = 1 inch
SIZE:
About 5 by 13 inches including pillow
NOTES:
1. Pillow and sleeping bag are worked in continuous rounds.
2. For the bag section, after working three rounds of single crochet, you can work the remainder in what ever stitch pattern you like. The Beanie Baby Sleeping Bag has instructions for using a shell stitch.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting with pillow, ch 18
ROUND 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (15) to last chain. Working over yarn tail for remainder of this round, 3 sc in last ch, work in opposite side of starting chain and sc in each of 16 chain stitches. DO NOT join rounds. [36 sc]
ROUNDS 2-10: Sc in each sc around. Fold flat and make sure your last stitch of round 8 is at the side and the pillow is right side out. [About 2.75 inches and 36 sc]
ROUND 11: Ch 1, if necessary turn, sc through both layers of pillow, over about 10 sts. Place a small amount of fiberfill in pillow and continue to sc in remaining sts, adding Polyfil to fill pillow softly. That completes the first half of round 11. [18 sc]
Ch 18, being careful not to twist the ch, sc in first sc of round 11. [18 sc, 18 ch]
ROUND 12: Sc in each sc and chain around. DO NOT JOIN. [36 sc]
ROUNDS 13-51: Sc in each sc around. [36 sc]
Fold flat and make sure the last stitch of round 51 is at the side. Bag should measure about 10 inches excluding the pillow and have 36 sc. If bag isn’t 10 inches, work enough additional rounds to reach 10 inches.
Close bottom of the bag by working; ch 1, turn if necessary, and sc through both thicknesses of the bag. [18 sc]
Fasten off and weave in end.
Friday, March 28, 2008
WOMAN'S GRANNY HAT (C)
WOMAN'S GRANNY HATMATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn (2 ounces total)
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
SIZES: Woman’s medium 20 inch (Woman’s large 22 inch)
NOTES:
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. Cut the yarn and fastened off for the color changes.
3. Beginning ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch, it is there as a filler.
4. Pull the joining slipstitches tight, so that they don’t get counted as a stitch on the following round
5. When attaching a new color make your loop on the hook, then take it off the hook. Insert hook in desired stitch, place loop on hook and complete the slipstitch. That slipstitch counts as your first chain.
6. Each time you fasten off a color, use your yarn needle to weave the end in and out of the back loop of the stitches. Then you will crochet over it.
Work rounds 8, 10, 12 with contrasting color.
I used Red Heart Super Saver Pink Camo and Frosty Green
Round 1: Ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [12 dc]
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [24 dc]
Round 3: Ch 2, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [36 dc]
Round 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [48 dc]
Round 5: Ch 2, *dc in 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [60 dc]
Round 6 medium only: Ch 2, *dc in 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [66 dc]
Round 6 large only: Ch 2, *dc in 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [72 dc]
Round 7: Ch 2, dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc.
Fasten off. [66 (72) dc]
Round 8: Join contrasting color with a slipstitch in join, ch 3, 2 dc in same st. *Skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 9: Join main color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 10: Join contrasting color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 11: Join main color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 12: Join contrasting color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Work remainder of hat in main color.
Round 13: Join main color with a slipstitch in top of any dc, ch 1, sc in each dc around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first sc.
Round 14-16: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first sc.
Round 17: Ch 1, rvsc (reverse single crochet) around. DO NOT join, but fasten off and use your yarn needle to join and weave in end.
BEANIE SLEEPING BAG (C)
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn approximately 3 ounces
Small amount of Polyfil
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows = 1 inch
SIZE:
About 7 by 10 inches including pillow
NOTES:
1. Pillow and sleeping bag are worked in continuous rounds.
2. Instructions are for a sleeping bag worked in single crochet. Instructions for working the sleeping bag in shell stitch follow the single crochet instructions.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting with pillow, ch 24
Worsted weight yarn approximately 3 ounces
Small amount of Polyfil
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows = 1 inch
SIZE:
About 7 by 10 inches including pillow
NOTES:
1. Pillow and sleeping bag are worked in continuous rounds.
2. Instructions are for a sleeping bag worked in single crochet. Instructions for working the sleeping bag in shell stitch follow the single crochet instructions.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting with pillow, ch 24
ROUND 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (21) to last chain. Working over yarn tail for remainder of this round, 3 sc in last ch, work in opposite side of starting chain and sc in each of 22 chain stitches. DO NOT join rounds. [48 sc]
ROUNDS 2-11: Sc in each sc around. Fold flat and make sure your last stitch of round 11 is at the side, and that right side is out. [About 3 inches and 48 sc]
ROUND 12: Ch 1, turn if necessary, sc through both layers of pillow, over about 10 sts. Place a small amount of fiberfill in pillow and continue to sc in remaining sts, adding Polyfil to fill pillow softly. That completes the first half of round 12. [24 sc]
Ch 24, being careful not to twist ch, sc in first sc of round 12. [24 sc, 24 ch]
ROUND 13: Sc in each sc and chain around. DO NOT join. [48 sc]
ROUND 12: Ch 1, turn if necessary, sc through both layers of pillow, over about 10 sts. Place a small amount of fiberfill in pillow and continue to sc in remaining sts, adding Polyfil to fill pillow softly. That completes the first half of round 12. [24 sc]
Ch 24, being careful not to twist ch, sc in first sc of round 12. [24 sc, 24 ch]
ROUND 13: Sc in each sc and chain around. DO NOT join. [48 sc]
ROUNDS 14-40: Sc in each sc around. [48 sc]
Fold flat and make sure your last stitch of round 40 is at the side. Bag should measure about 10 inches including pillow and have 48 sc. If bag isn’t 10 inches work additional rounds to reach 10 inches.
Close bottom of bag by working; ch 1, turn if necessary, and sc through both thicknesses of the bag. [24 sc]
Fasten off and weave in end.
VARIATION:
Fold flat and make sure your last stitch of round 40 is at the side. Bag should measure about 10 inches including pillow and have 48 sc. If bag isn’t 10 inches work additional rounds to reach 10 inches.
Close bottom of bag by working; ch 1, turn if necessary, and sc through both thicknesses of the bag. [24 sc]
Fasten off and weave in end.
VARIATION:
Shell Stitch:
Work above instructions through round 14.
Round 15: Beginning at either side, *skip 1 sc, 3 dc (shell) in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in last sc before the first shell.
ROUND 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. *Sc in center st of shell, 3 dc in next sc. Repeat from * around, ending with slipstitch in top of ch 3.
ROUND 17: Slipstitch in next st, ch 1, sc in same st. *3 dc in sc, sc in center st of next shell. Repeat around ending with slipstitch in beginning sc.
Repeat rounds 16 and 17, until sleeping bag measures 10 inches from beginning including pillow. Ending with round 17.
Fold in half, with pillow centered, matching shells and sc. Slipstitch to folded edge. Ch 1 and sc two edges together.
Fasten off and weave in end.
TEANIE BEANIE SLEEPING BAG (C)
TEANIE BEANIE SLEEPING BAGMATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn (1.1 ounces)
Small amount of Polyfil
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows = 1 inch
SIZE:
About 4 1/2 by 7 inches including pillow
NOTES:
Pillow and sleeping bag are worked in continuous rounds.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting with pillow, ch 15
ROUND 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (12) to last chain. Working over yarn tail for remainder of this round, 3 sc in last ch, work in opposite side of starting chain and sc in each of 13 chain stitches. DO NOT join rounds. [30 sc]
ROUNDS 2-8: Sc in each sc around. Fold flat and make sure your last stitch of round 8 is at the side and the pillow is right side out. [About 2 inches and 30 sc]
ROUND 9: Ch 1, if necessary turn, sc through both layers of pillow, over about 10 sts. Place a small amount of fiberfill in pillow and continue to sc in remaining sts, adding Polyfil to fill pillow softly. That completes the first half of round 9. [15 sc]
Ch 15, being careful not to twist the ch, sc in first sc of round 9. [15 sc, 15 ch]
ROUND 10: Sc in each sc and chain around. DO NOT JOIN. [30 sc]
ROUNDS 11-26: Sc in each sc around. [30 sc]
Fold flat and make sure the last stitch of round 26 is at the side. Bag should measure about 7 inches including pillow and have 30 sc. If bag isn’t 7 inches, work enough additional rounds to reach 7 inches.
Close bottom of the bag by working; ch 1, turn if necessary, and sc through both thicknesses of the bag. [15 sc]
Fasten off and weave in end.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
KID'S GRANNY HAT (C)
KID'S GRANNY HAT
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn (1.5 ounces total)
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
SIZES: Baby 16 inch (Child 18 inch)
NOTES:
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. Cut the yarn and fastened off for the color changes.
3. Beginning ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch, it is there as a filler.
4. Pull the joining slipstitches tight, so that they don’t get counted as a stitch on the following round
5. When attaching a new color make your loop on the hook, then take it off the hook. Insert hook in desired stitch, place loop on hook and complete the slipstitch. That slipstitch counts as your first chain.
6. Each time you fasten off a color, use your yarn needle to weave the end in and out of the back loop of the stitches. Then you will crochet over it.
7. Work rounds 7, 9, 11 with contrasting color.
8. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns.
Round 1: Ch 3. 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [12 dc]
Worsted weight yarn (1.5 ounces total)
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
SIZES: Baby 16 inch (Child 18 inch)
NOTES:
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. Cut the yarn and fastened off for the color changes.
3. Beginning ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch, it is there as a filler.
4. Pull the joining slipstitches tight, so that they don’t get counted as a stitch on the following round
5. When attaching a new color make your loop on the hook, then take it off the hook. Insert hook in desired stitch, place loop on hook and complete the slipstitch. That slipstitch counts as your first chain.
6. Each time you fasten off a color, use your yarn needle to weave the end in and out of the back loop of the stitches. Then you will crochet over it.
7. Work rounds 7, 9, 11 with contrasting color.
8. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarns.
Round 1: Ch 3. 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [12 dc]
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [24 dc]
Round 3: Ch 2, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [36 dc]
Round 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [48 dc]
For 16 inch hat, skip to Round 7.
Round 5: Ch 2, *dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [54 dc]
Round 6: Ch 2, dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc.
Fasten off. [54 dc]
Round 7: Join contrasting color with a slipstitch in join, ch 3, 2 dc in same st. *Skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 8: Join main color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 9: Join contrasting color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 10: Join main color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 11: Join contrasting color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 12: Join main color with a slipstitch in top of any dc, ch 1, sc in each dc around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first sc.
Edging for girl’s hat:
Round 13: Ch 3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same sc. *Skip 3 sc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc. Repeat from * around. You may have to fudge the last shell with only skipping 2 sc. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Edging for boy's hat:
Round 13: Sc around
For 16 inch hat, skip to Round 7.
Round 5: Ch 2, *dc in 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. [54 dc]
Round 6: Ch 2, dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc.
Fasten off. [54 dc]
Round 7: Join contrasting color with a slipstitch in join, ch 3, 2 dc in same st. *Skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 8: Join main color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 9: Join contrasting color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 10: Join main color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 11: Join contrasting color with slipstitch in any space between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same space. *Skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next space. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Round 12: Join main color with a slipstitch in top of any dc, ch 1, sc in each dc around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first sc.
Edging for girl’s hat:
Round 13: Ch 3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same sc. *Skip 3 sc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc. Repeat from * around. You may have to fudge the last shell with only skipping 2 sc. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Edging for boy's hat:
Round 13: Sc around
Round 14: Ch 1, rvsc (reverse single crochet) around. DO NOT join, but fasten off and use your yarn needle to join and weave in end.
Thursday, March 06, 2008
CROCHETED I-CORD
CROCHETED I-CORD
Materials:
Any weight yarn
Crochet hook to work at a firm gauge
Notes:
1. Samples made with Red Heart Super Saver and G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
2. If you are making the I-Cord to be felted, I use an I (5.5 mm) crochet hook with worsted weight wool.
3. You will be working from the inside of a "tube".
4. You can work I-Cord over clothes line or drapery cord to make it stable.
Round 1: With G hook ch 2, depending how big you want the I-Cord 4, 5 or 6 sc in second chain from hook. Do not join.
Round 2-until desired length: Sc in back loop of next sc. Continue working sc in back loop until cord is as long as needed.
Fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Weave tail through the sc from the outside and pull snug.
CROCHETED EASTER BASKET
I want to thank my pattern testers. Without their input this pattern wouldn't have been born.
Mary from Las Vegas crocheted the two in the same photo.
Jo from NY crocheted the blue one.
Mary from Las Vegas crocheted the two in the same photo.
Jo from NY crocheted the blue one.
BASKET SIZES:
Small: Bottom 5.5, Top 6.5, Height 5 inches
Large: Bottom 7, Top 8, Height 6 inches
MATERIALS:
Plastic Easter basket (as pictured) or other plastic container
Worsted weight yarn about 3.5 oz for basket cover
Worsted weight yarn small amount of contrasting colors for flowers and leaves
H (5.0mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving ends
There are patterns for three sizes of containers included here. You can easily modify the pattern to whatever plastic container you have around. The one with the pink centered daffodils is made for a small Cool Whip Container. The one in the same photo with the yellow centered daffodils is made for a GladWare quart container. The pink one is on a small sized basket. The blue one is on the large sized basket.
There are patterns for three sizes of containers included here. You can easily modify the pattern to whatever plastic container you have around. The one with the pink centered daffodils is made for a small Cool Whip Container. The one in the same photo with the yellow centered daffodils is made for a GladWare quart container. The pink one is on a small sized basket. The blue one is on the large sized basket.
To modify the pattern just crochet the base to fit your container, then work the sides even until it reaches the rim of the container. Then follow the pattern instructions to finish.
The handles on the both the Cool Whip and the GladWare ones were made with a strip of plastic canvass for stiffening.
GAUGE: 4 dc = 1 inch
NOTES:
GAUGE: 4 dc = 1 inch
NOTES:
1. Read all instructions before beginning,
2. Pull your slipstitches tight.
3. Before beginning remove handle from bucket. Save it, as you will need it to finish the Easter Basket.
SMALL
Round 1: Ch 3, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as first dc from now on), 2 dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, (dc in 1 st, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, (dc in 2 sts, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (48 sts)
SMALL
Round 1: Ch 3, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as first dc from now on), 2 dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, (dc in 1 st, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, (dc in 2 sts, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (48 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, working in back loop only (sc in 3 sts, 2 sc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (60 sts)
Compare to bottom of the container you are using. Piece should be about the same size as container bottom or slightly smaller.
Round 6-11: Ch 1, dc in each st. (60 dc)
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in each st. (60 sc)
Round 13: Ch 2, dc in 13 sts, ch 1, skip 1, dc in 29 sts, ch 1, skip 1, dc in 16 sts. (58 sts, 2 ch 1 spaces)
Round 14-15: Ch 1, sc each st. (60 sc)
Round 16: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts, repeat from * around. (50 sts)
Round 17: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts, repeat from * around. (40 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Fit over container, spaces in round 13 should be over where the handle attaches.
Tie: Chain 75. Fasten off. Using yarn needle and tail weave in and out of Round 17. Pull snug and tie in knot or bow.
Handle: Ch 3, yo insert hook in first ch, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull though 1 loop (this creates the base ch you will go into on the next st), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops. *Yo insert hook in base ch, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull though 1 loop, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until piece is as long as the handle, with a odd number of bars.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Weave the basket handle in and out of the bars. Reattach handle to basket and tack the first and last bar to the basket cover.
LARGE
Round 1: Ch 3, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as first dc from now on), 2 dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, (dc in 1 st, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, (dc in 2 sts, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (48 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2, (dc in 3 sts, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (60 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, working in back loop only (sc in 4 sts, 2 sc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (72 sc)
Compare to bottom of the container you are using. Piece should be about the same size as container bottom or slightly smaller.
Round 7-10: Ch 2, dc in each st. (72 dc)
Round 11: Ch 2, (dc in 11 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (78 sts)
Round 12-15: Ch 2, dc in each st. (78 dc)
Round 16: Ch 1, sc in each st. (78 sc)
Round 17: Ch 2, (dc in 19 sts, ch 1, skip 1, dc in 38 sts, ch 1, skip 1, dc in 19 sts. (76 dc, 2 ch 1 spaces)
Round 18-19: Ch 1, sc in each st. (78 sc)
Round 20: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around (65 sts)
Round 21: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (52 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Fit over container, spaces in round 17 should be over where the handle attaches.
Tie: Chain 125. Fasten off. Using yarn needle and tail weave in and out of Round 21. Pull snug and tie in knot or bow.
Handle: Ch 3, yo insert hook in first ch, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull though 1 loop (this creates the base ch you will go into on the next st), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops. *Yo insert hook in base ch, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull though 1 loop, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until piece is as long as the handle, with a odd number of bars.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.Weave the basket handle in and out of the bars. Reattach handle to basket and tack the first and last bar to the basket cover.
SMALL COOL WHIP CONTAINER
Additional materials:Strip of plastic canvass for handle, approximately 3/8 inch wide and 12 inches long.
Round 1: Ch 3, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as first dc from now on), 2 dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, (dc in 1 st, 2 dc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, working in back loop only (hdc in 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st), repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first hdc. (48 sts)
Compare to bottom of the container you are using. Piece should be about the same size as container bottom or slightly smaller.
Round 5-8: Ch 1, dc in each st. (48 dc)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each st. (48 sc)
Round 10: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts, repeat from * around. (40 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1, *sc in 6 sts, sc dec over next 2 sts, repeat from * around. (35 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Fit over container.
Tie: Chain 65. Fasten off. Using yarn needle and tail weave in and out of Round 11. Pull snug and tie in knot or bow.
Handle: Ch 3, yo insert hook in first ch, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull though 1 loop (this creates the base ch you will go into on the next st), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops. *Yo insert hook in base ch, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull though 1 loop, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until piece is as long as the handle, with a odd number of bars.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Weave the basket handle in and out of the bars. Attach handle to basket by sewing the handle covering to the basket cover on opposite sides.
EMBELLISHMENTS:
Embellish with flowers and leaves. There is a pattern for my crocheted daffodils here:
Other suggestions for embellishments are ribbons, buttons and silk flowers.
CROCHETED DAFFODIL
Materials:Small amount of worsted weight yarn in flower colors
H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
Notes:
1. Read instructions completely before beginning.
2. Photo shows daffodils in three sizes.
3. I used orange and white for my daffodils.
4. Pull each slipstitch tight.
5. I sewed my daffodils and leaves to an Easter Basket. Depending on the use they could be hot glued on.
Round 1: With center color, ch 2, 7 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with slipstitch in top of first hdc. (7 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (7 sc)
This next round is going to feel awkward, but the rev sc is so worth the effort.
Round 3: Ch 1, rev sc in each stitch around. DO NOT join, but fasten off and use tail to close round.
Now you have completed the cup or trumpet part of your daffodil.
Round 4: Using the outside petal color, join yarn to any unused loop of hdc on round 1 with a slipstitch. *Ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1, slipstitch all in the same st as slipstitch, slipstitch in the unused loop of next hdc, repeat from * around. DO NOT join, but fasten off and use tail to close round. (7 petals).
Weave in ends.
Using the same instructions you can make a larger center by starting with 9 or 11 hdc on round 1. That will give your daffodils 9 or 11 petals.
Stems and leaves:
Leaf: Ch desired length for leaf. Slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in remaining chains.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stem: Chain desired length for stem. Slipstitch in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
Notes:
1. Read instructions completely before beginning.
2. Photo shows daffodils in three sizes.
3. I used orange and white for my daffodils.
4. Pull each slipstitch tight.
5. I sewed my daffodils and leaves to an Easter Basket. Depending on the use they could be hot glued on.
Round 1: With center color, ch 2, 7 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with slipstitch in top of first hdc. (7 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (7 sc)
This next round is going to feel awkward, but the rev sc is so worth the effort.
Round 3: Ch 1, rev sc in each stitch around. DO NOT join, but fasten off and use tail to close round.
Now you have completed the cup or trumpet part of your daffodil.
Round 4: Using the outside petal color, join yarn to any unused loop of hdc on round 1 with a slipstitch. *Ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1, slipstitch all in the same st as slipstitch, slipstitch in the unused loop of next hdc, repeat from * around. DO NOT join, but fasten off and use tail to close round. (7 petals).
Weave in ends.
Using the same instructions you can make a larger center by starting with 9 or 11 hdc on round 1. That will give your daffodils 9 or 11 petals.
Stems and leaves:
Leaf: Ch desired length for leaf. Slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in remaining chains.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stem: Chain desired length for stem. Slipstitch in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain.
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
