Wednesday, May 15, 2013
VERY EASY SCARFLET
VERY EASY SCARFLET
No remarks about my turkey neck please.
I’m knitting a bunch of these and the Fold Up Cuff Cap as sets for my charity giving this fall.
SIZE:
Ends = 7 inches
Ribbed section = 3.75 inches
Length = 32 inches
NOTES:
- Read
instructions through before beginning.
- To make a
wider scarflet cast on additional stitches in increments of 4.
- To make a
longer scarflet work rows 9 and 10 until about 1.5 inches shorter than
desired.
- Scarflet in
photo was knit with Red Heart Super Saver in Buff Fleck. There was plenty in the 5 ounce skein
for the scarflet and cap. If you
make it wider or longer it will take more yarn…duh!
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight (4) yarn approximately 2.25 ounces (120 yards)
US size 9 (5.5 mm) and 10.5 (6.5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle
INSTRUCTIONS:
With 10.5 needles cast on 26 sts.
Rows 1-8: K
Switch to size 9 needles.
Row 9: K2, P2 across, end with K2 .
Row 10: P2, K2
across end with P2.
Repeat rows 9 and 10 until scarf is about 31 inches from cast on edge,
ending with row 9.
Switch back to size 10.5 needles.
Knit 8 rows.
Bind off and weave in ends.
Friday, May 10, 2013
EASY EARFLAP CAP IN 2 SIZES
Thank you Virginia, for testing this pattern.
EASY EARFLAP CAP IN 2 SIZES
MATERIALS:
Smaller (14-15 inches):
Sports weight (3) yarn about .75 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
Sports weight (3) yarn about .75 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
Larger (16-17 inches):
Worsted weight (4) yarn about 1.5 ounces
US size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Both sizes:
Tapestry needle
Tapestry needle
GAUGE:
16 sc = 4 inches with sports
weight
14 sc = 4 inches with
worsted weight
NOTES:
1. Read instructions through before beginning.
2.
Ch 2
at beg of each round does not count as hdc.
3.
Pull
the slip stitches tight, until they nearly disappear.
4.
For
a larger cap, use worsted weight and an US I (5.5 mm) crochet hook.
5.
Caps
in photo are left to right: Red Heart
Super Saver and Bernat Baby Sport.
INSTRUCTIONS:
.
.
Round 1: Ch
3, working over the tail 9 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with slip stitch in 1st hdc. (9 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2. 2 hdc in each hdc around. Join with
slip stitch in 1st hdc. (18 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2. 1 hdc in 1st hdc. *2 hdc in next
hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc.
Repeat from * around. 2 hdc in last hdc. Join with slip stitch in 1st hdc. (27 sts)
Repeat from * around. 2 hdc in last hdc. Join with slip stitch in 1st hdc. (27 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2. 2 hdc in 1st hdc. *1 hdc in each
of next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * around. Hdc in last 2 hdc. Join with slip stitch in 1st
hdc. (36 sts)
Round 5: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc, 2 hdc
in next hdc. Repeat from * around. Join
with slip stitch to 1st hdc. (45 sts)
Round 6: Ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next
hdc. *1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * around. Hdc in last 2 hdc. Join with slip stitch in 1st
hdc. (54 sts)
Rounds 7-14: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc around. Join with
slip stitch in 1st hdc. (54 sts)
Round 15 larger size only: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc around. Join with
slip stitch in 1st hdc. (54 sts)
With the sports weight yarn cap should measure
about 4.75 inches from beginning.
With the worsted weight yarn cap should
measure about 5.75 inches from beginning.
DO
NOT fasten off.
EARFLAP:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in join, sc in each of next 12 hdc. Turn. (13 sts)
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in join, sc in each of next 12 hdc. Turn. (13 sts)
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (13 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 9 sts. Sc2tog.
Turn. (11 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 7 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 5 sts. Sc2tog.
Turn. (7 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 3 sts. Sc2tog.
Turn. (5 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc in next 1 st. Sc2tog. (3 sts)
Fasten off.
Holding cap with top down, counting to the left skip next 18 sts for the front..
Attach yarn with a sc in 19th st, sc in
each of next 12 hdc (10 unworked stitches for back). Turn. (13 sts)
Check now to be sure the joins of rounds
1-14 are going to be in back of cap.
Repeat earflap rows 2-9.
Do not fasten off.
Edging: Ch 1. Work 1 round of sc evenly around
edge of cap. Working 8 sc on each side
of earflap and 1 in each sc. Join with
slip stitch in 1st sc.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends. Remember when you worked over the beginning
tail? When weaving in the end pull the
beginning tail tight to close up the hole in the top of cap. (Oops, you didn’t work over the beginning
tail, no problem just use the tapestry needle to weave in the end and pull
tight to close the hole.)
OPTIONAL
TIES AND TASSELS:
Leaving a 5 inch tail, ch 21. Remove hook from loop, from inside place hook
through bottom center of earflap, pull loop through and ch 1. Slip stitch in the bumps on the back of the
chs,
Fasten off leaving a 5 inch tail.
Cut 3 pieces of yarn, each 10 inches
long. Use the tapestry needle to pull
the pieces through the end of the tie.
Tie an overhand knot as close as possible to the chains. Pull each strand of tassel individually to
tighten knot.
Repeat for second tassel.
Trim tassels evenly.
Tuesday, May 07, 2013
EASY SEAMLESS BOOTIES
In the fall of 1960, when I was expecting my older son, I first crocheted these booties. This version is updated for today's yarns.
0-3 months (3.5 inches):
Sports weight (3) yarn about .5 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in remaining 14 ch. Do not turn. Working over tail for remainder of this round, hdc in the opposite side (unworked loops) of the beginning ch. (30 sts)
Place stitch marker in the hdc you just crocheted.
Thank you Virginia for testing this pattern.
EASY SEAMLESS BOOTIES
MATERIALS:
0-3 months (3.5 inches):
Sports weight (3) yarn about .5 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
3-6 months (4.5 inches):
Worsted weight (4) yarn about 1.25 ounces
US size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Both sizes:
Stitch marker (I use a bobby pin)
Tapestry needle
Tapestry needle
NOTES:
- Read instructions through before beginning.
- If you want a larger bootie
you can adjust the number of stitches in your starting chain.
- Booties in the photo were crocheted with Bernat Baby Sport (0-3 month) and Red Heart Super Saver (3-6 month).
SPECIAL STITCHES:
Sc2tog = Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up
loop, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over
and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Hdc2tog = (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull
up loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Leaving about a 4 inch tail, ch 16.
Round 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in remaining 14 ch. Do not turn. Working over tail for remainder of this round, hdc in the opposite side (unworked loops) of the beginning ch. (30 sts)
Place stitch marker in the hdc you just crocheted.
Do not join, work in
continuous rounds. Move
your stitch marker up to mark the last st made of each round.
Round 2-4: Hdc in 30 hdc. (30 sts)
Round 5: Hdc2tog in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc in remaining sts. (28 sts)
Round 2-4: Hdc in 30 hdc. (30 sts)
Round 5: Hdc2tog in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc in remaining sts. (28 sts)
Round 6: Hdc2tog in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc
in remaining sts. (26 sts)
Round 7: Sc2tog in next 2 st; twice. Sc in remaining sts. (24 sts)
Round 7: Sc2tog in next 2 st; twice. Sc in remaining sts. (24 sts)
Round 8: Sc2tog in 2 st; twice. Sc in remaining sts. (22 sts)
Remove stitch marker, you won’t need it until you start the next
bootie.
Round 9: Slip stitch in 1st st, pull the slip stitch tight so it almost disappears. Ch 2, dc in same stitch as slip stitch and in remaining 21 stitches. Skip ch2, join with a slip stitch around the first dc as if to fpdc. (22 sts)
Round 10-11: Ch2. *Bpdc around next stitch. Fpdc around next stitch.
Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch around the ch2 as if to fpdc. (22 sts)
Round 9: Slip stitch in 1st st, pull the slip stitch tight so it almost disappears. Ch 2, dc in same stitch as slip stitch and in remaining 21 stitches. Skip ch2, join with a slip stitch around the first dc as if to fpdc. (22 sts)
Round 10-11: Ch2. *Bpdc around next stitch. Fpdc around next stitch.
Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch around the ch2 as if to fpdc. (22 sts)
Fasten off.
Weave in end.
Repeat for second bootie.
OPTIONAL
TIES AND TASSELS:
Leaving a 5 inch tail, ch 60. Fasten off leaving a 5 inch tail.
Cut 3 pieces of yarn, each 10 inches
long. Use the tapestry needle to pull
the pieces through the end of the tie.
Tie an overhand knot as close as possible to the chains. Pull each strand of tassel individually to
tighten knot. Repeat for other end of
tie.
Repeat for second tassel.
Trim tassels evenly.
Weave tie through round 9.
Sunday, May 05, 2013
ANGEL WING BABY PINAFORE
Sleeves without the optional picot shell edge.
Sleeve on the left has the optional picot shell edge.
Thank you Maxine Gonser for graciously allowing me to revise her pattern to be worked in the round.
Thank you Virginia J for testing this pattern.
ANGEL WING BABY PINAFORE
MATERIALS:
Sport weight (3) yarn less than 3 ounces
US H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Sport weight (3) yarn less than 3 ounces
US H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
1 or 2 buttons that will fit snugly through row 2
GAUGE:
7 sts = 2 inches
2 rows of dc = 1
inch
SIZE:
At underarm = 18
inches
Length neckline
to hem = 10 inches
NOTES:
- Read instructions through before beginning.
- I based this pattern on Maxine Gonser’s Angel Wing Newborn Pinafore on Bev’s Country Cottage: http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/angel-wings-pinafore.html
- The measurements above are for a pinafore
crocheted with Bernat Baby Sport.
If you want a larger pinafore use worsted weight and the appropriate
size hook.
- If you don’t like working into the back bump,
you can just work into the stitch normally.
- The turning chain twos do not count as a double
crochet.
Ch 52, leaving
about a 10 inch tail. More about the
tail later.
Row 1: Sc in back bump of second ch from hook an in each ch across. (51 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2. turn. Dc in each of next 3 sts. * 2dc in next st. dc in each of next 3 sts. repeat from * 11 times. (63 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2. turn. Dc in each of the next 3 sts. * 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * 11 times. (75 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2.turn. dc in each of the next 4 sts. * 2 dc in the next st.dc in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * 13 times. Dc in each of the remaining sts. (89 sts)
Join with slip
stitch in first true dc of row 4, to begin working in rounds. We will keep the same numbering sequence. From here on the chain 3 counts as a double
crochet.
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in the same st. *Skip next st, shell (2dc ch 2 2dc) in next st. Repeat from * around. 2dc in last dc. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (44 shells)
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in the same st. *Skip next st, shell (2dc ch 2 2dc) in next st. Repeat from * around. 2dc in last dc. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (44 shells)
Round 6: Ch
3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in
next 5 shells, ch 3, skip 10 shells, shell in next 13 shells, ch 3, skip 10
shells, shell in next 5 shells, 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc
in beginning ch 3 to form last shell.
(24 shells)
Round 7: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in 5 shells, dc in each of next 3 ch, shell in next 13 shells, dc in each of 3 ch, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (24 shells)
Round 8: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in next 5 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 13 shells, skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (26 shells)
Round 7: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in 5 shells, dc in each of next 3 ch, shell in next 13 shells, dc in each of 3 ch, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (24 shells)
Round 8: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in next 5 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 13 shells, skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (26 shells)
Rounds 9-17: Ch 3, dc in the space created by hdc. Shell in each shell around. 2dc in space where
first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning
ch 3.
(26 shells)
If using a
contrasting color for the final round fasten off and start next round with the
contrasting yarn.
Round 18: Ch
3, 2dc in the space created by hdc. *In
next shell 3dc , ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch, 3dc all in same
space. Repeat from * around. 3dc in space where first 3 dc were worked,
ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch.
Fasten off and use tapestry needle to join to beginning ch3. (26 shells)
Weave in end.
Remember the beginning tail? Use that to sew on the button. Use a space in row 2 for the buttonhole.
Optional Sleeve Edging:
Attach yarn with a sc in the
center ch of the underarm ch3, sc in next ch.
*In next shell 2dc , ch3, slip stitch in back
bump of first ch, 2dc all in same space.
Repeat from * around. (there will
be 12 picot shells) Sc in last of the underarm chains. Fasten off and weave in end. (if you prefer you can join with a slip
stitch before fastening off, but I prefer joining with my tapestry needle.
Repeat for
second sleeve.
Wednesday, May 01, 2013
TWISTED OLD SHALE BABY BLANKET
TWISTED OLD SHALE BABY BLANKET
SIZES: 28 x 34 inches
MATERIALS:
Caron One Pound Soft Pink 12 ounces
US size 10 (6.0 mm) 24 inch or
longer circular knitting needle
Tapestry needle
NOTES:
- Read instructions through before beginning.
- The first and last 6 stitches of each row are
knit for the side borders.
- To increase the width cast on additional stitches
in multiples of 18.
- If you make your blanket larger you will need
more than 12 ounces of yarn.
- To purl through the back of the yarn over work
as in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MGUeMN7MNc The purl through the back loop is the
second half of the video.
- This blanket would be larger if blocked. For a baby blanket I prefer it
unblocked, it seems cuddlier without blocking.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Cast on 120 sts.
Rows 1-8: Knit for border.
Row 9 right side: K6, K2tog 3 times. *(YO, K1) 6 times. K2tog 6
times. Repeat from * to last 18
stitches. (YO, K1) 6 times. K2tog 3 times. K6.
(120 sts)
When working the next row purl the YOs in the back
loop. Purl the other stitches normally.
Row 10: K6, P across to last 6 sts, K6. (120 sts)
Row 11: K. (120 sts)
Row 12: K. (120 sts)
Repeat rows 9-12 until blanket is about 1 1/2 inches
less than desired length.
Knit 7 rows for border.
Bind off.
Weave in ends.