Monday, August 31, 2009
SUZIE’S RIBS AND STRIPES BEANIE (C)
Many thanks to my testers.
Materials:
About 2.5 oz of worsted weight yarn (1.25 each of two colors)
Women’s I (5.50 mm) crochet hook
Men’s J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Men’s J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge:
6 sc = 2 inches with I hook
Size: Women’s and men’s average
6 sc = 2 inches with I hook
Size: Women’s and men’s average
Notes:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Change yarn color in the joining slipstitch. Pull the slipstitch tight. You want it to nearly disappear.
3. Don’t cut the yarn when changing colors just carry it up when needed again. When picking up the dropped color give it a tug to tighten up the stitch it was last used for.
4. Special stitch, fptr = front post treble crochet
5. If the last fptr is worked in the last st of a round, slip the first stitch of the round to join. If you don’t skip a stitch you will be making an increase on that round.
6. There won’t be the same number of single crochets between the fptc, but it won’t be noticeable on the finished beanie.
7. This pattern comes down over the ears, if you want a shorter version omit rounds 15 and 16.
8. Hat in photo is made with Red Heart Super Saver Cafe and Black.
3. Don’t cut the yarn when changing colors just carry it up when needed again. When picking up the dropped color give it a tug to tighten up the stitch it was last used for.
4. Special stitch, fptr = front post treble crochet
5. If the last fptr is worked in the last st of a round, slip the first stitch of the round to join. If you don’t skip a stitch you will be making an increase on that round.
6. There won’t be the same number of single crochets between the fptc, but it won’t be noticeable on the finished beanie.
7. This pattern comes down over the ears, if you want a shorter version omit rounds 15 and 16.
8. Hat in photo is made with Red Heart Super Saver Cafe and Black.
Instructions:
Round 1: With contrast color yarn, this is the color of the ribs. Ch 4 and join with a slip stitch in first ch to form ring. Ch 3, (count as first dc), 11 dc in ring. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (12 sts)
Round 2: With main color yarn. Ch 3, (count as first dc), dc in same st as join. 2 Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3 (24 sts)
Round 3: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, sc in same st as join. Sc in next dc, fptr around same dc of round 1. *Sc in 4 dc, , skip 1 dc of round 1, fptr around next dc of round 1. Repeat from *around. Sc in last 2 dc. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (30 sts)
Round 2: With main color yarn. Ch 3, (count as first dc), dc in same st as join. 2 Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3 (24 sts)
Round 3: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, sc in same st as join. Sc in next dc, fptr around same dc of round 1. *Sc in 4 dc, , skip 1 dc of round 1, fptr around next dc of round 1. Repeat from *around. Sc in last 2 dc. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (30 sts)
Round 4: With main color yarn. Ch 3, (count as first dc), dc in same st as join. *Dc in 2 st, 2 dc in next st, repeat from * around. Dc in last 2 sts. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (40 sts)
Round 5: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 3, fptr around fptr of round 3. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (46 sts)
Round 6: With main color yarn. Ch 3, (count as first dc), dc in same st as join. *Dc in 3 st, 2 dc in next st, repeat from * around. Dc in last st. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (58 sts)
Round 7: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 5, fptr around fptr of round 5, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 8: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 9: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 7, fptr around fptr of round 7, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 10: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 11: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 9, fptr around fptr of round 9, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn with the new color and join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 12: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 13: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 11, fptr around fptr of round 11, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 14: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn with the new color and join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 15: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 13, fptr around fptr of round 13, skip 1 str. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 16: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 8: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 9: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 7, fptr around fptr of round 7, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 10: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 11: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 9, fptr around fptr of round 9, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn with the new color and join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 12: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 13: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 11, fptr around fptr of round 11, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 14: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn with the new color and join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Round 15: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 13, fptr around fptr of round 13, skip 1 str. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Round 16: With main color yarn. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), dc in same st as join. Dc in each st around. Drop yarn and with the new color join with a slipstitch in first dc. (58 sts)
Cut main color yarn, leaving a tail for weaving in later.
Round 17: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the dc worked into the fptr of round 15, fptr around fptr of round 15, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Rounds 18-19: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, sc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)Round 20: With contrast color yarn. Ch 1, *sc in each st to and in the sc worked slighty to the right of the fptr of round 17, fptr around fptr of round 17, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around ending with sc in each st to end of round. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (58 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Saturday, August 29, 2009
SUZIE’S OCTOPUS FINGER PUPPET
MATERIALS:
About ½ ounce of worsted weight yarn
H (5.0 mm) Crochet hook
Yarn needle
6 mm Wiggle eyes or Puff paint
Tacky Glue
Toothpick
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Puppet is worked in continuous rounds, DO NOT join. Use a stitch marker to mark beginning of each round.
3. When crocheting into the chain, place your hook under two loops.
4. Octopus in photo was made with Red Heart Super Saver.
5. For eyes use wiggle eyes or puff paint if for a very young child.
About ½ ounce of worsted weight yarn
H (5.0 mm) Crochet hook
Yarn needle
6 mm Wiggle eyes or Puff paint
Tacky Glue
Toothpick
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Puppet is worked in continuous rounds, DO NOT join. Use a stitch marker to mark beginning of each round.
3. When crocheting into the chain, place your hook under two loops.
4. Octopus in photo was made with Red Heart Super Saver.
5. For eyes use wiggle eyes or puff paint if for a very young child.
6. If you want stuff the body with a small amount of Polyfill or a cotton ball.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Ch 2.
Round 1: 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16 sc)
Rounds 3-6: Sc in each st around. (16 sc)
Round 7: *Sc dec over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (8 sc)
Round 8: *Ch 10, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in remaining 7 ch. Sc in next st of round 7. Repeat from * around. (8 tentacles and 8 sc)
Round 9: Working behind the tentacles, sc in each sc between tentacles. (8 sc)
Round 10: *Sc in each st around. (8 sc)
Finishing: Slipstitch in next 2 sts, fasten off. Weave in ends.
Eyes:
With toothpick place 2 dots of Tacky glue on round 5, about 3/8 inch apart. Place eyes on glue. Let dry and enjoy.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Ch 2.
Round 1: 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16 sc)
Rounds 3-6: Sc in each st around. (16 sc)
Round 7: *Sc dec over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (8 sc)
Round 8: *Ch 10, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in remaining 7 ch. Sc in next st of round 7. Repeat from * around. (8 tentacles and 8 sc)
Round 9: Working behind the tentacles, sc in each sc between tentacles. (8 sc)
Round 10: *Sc in each st around. (8 sc)
Finishing: Slipstitch in next 2 sts, fasten off. Weave in ends.
Eyes:
With toothpick place 2 dots of Tacky glue on round 5, about 3/8 inch apart. Place eyes on glue. Let dry and enjoy.
SUZIE’S FINGER PUPPETS (C)
Finger puppets made by my friend JoAnne B of WA. Thanks for sharing your photo with us.
MATERIALS:
Small amount of: Worsted weight yarn
About 30 inches of Fun Fur or other yarn for hair
G (4.25 mm) Crochet hook
Yarn needle
6 mm Wiggle Eyes or Puff paint
Tacky glue
Toothpick
NOTES:
Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
After joining round 1, puppet is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark beginning of each round. Or eyeball it, after all this isn’t rocket science.
Turn your work after round 2; this is because generally eyelash yarn is fuzziest on the wrong side of crochet. If yours seems to be fuzzier on the front then you don’t need to turn.
Use the tip of your yarn needle to fluff up the individual eyelashes that are caught in the stitches.
For eyes use wiggle eyes or puff paint if for a very young child.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Round 1: With worsted weight yarn and Fun Fur, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join in first sc. (8 sc)
Round 2: Cut Fun Fur leaving about an inch. Ch 1, turn, sc in the back loop of each st around. (8 sc)
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each st around. (8 sc)
Round 5: Ch 5, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook and sc in remaining 3 ch. Sc in next 4 sts of round 4. Ch 5, slipstitch in 2nd ch from hook and sc in remaining 3 ch. Sc in last 4 sts of round 4. (8 sc and 2 arms)
Rounds 6-10: Sc in each st. (8 sc)
Finishing: Slipstitch in next 2 sts, fasten off and weave in end.
Eyes:
With toothpick place 2 dots of Tacky glue right below “hair” line, on adjoining sts. Place eyes on glue. Let dry and enjoy.
Friday, August 28, 2009
SUZIE'S BASSINET PURSE (C)
Since 1999 I have been making these little bassinet purses. I started with this pattern and every year have tweaked it a little. This year I decided I would spend some time to get it just the way I like it. It is larger than the original. I leave the hood off, as it never turned out perfectly for me. I was always unhappy with the drawstrings, so I added a round just to corral those and like it much better. I thank Irene for the inspiration. Lots of little girls past and future thank her as well.
2/18/2010 Round 6 edited, Edit in red.
SIZE:
6 inch doll
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn 2 colors (main 2 oz, contrast 1.5 oz)
Crochet hook size H (5.0 mm)
Stitch marker (I used a bobby pin)
NOTES:
1. Read notes and instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Round 1 has 7 dc (counting the ch 3 as a dc) on one end and the opposite end has 6 dc. That’s intentional, to make it work out to 45 sts.
3. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the slip stitch tight.
4. Hdc shows three loops, the two you always see and a third on the back. You will be working first in the back loop and after turning working in the remaining two loops.
5. I used Red Heart Super Saver for the bassinet in the photo.
6. The doll was purchased at Wal-Mart.
7. Cut a piece of flannel 8 X 8 inches for blanket.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting at base, with white leaving a 6 inch tail, ch 21
Round 1: 3 dc (counts as a dc) in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 16 ch, 6 dc in last ch, working along opposite side of starting ch and over beginning tail, dc in next 16 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Join with slipstitch in top of ch 3. (45 sts)
Rounds 2-5: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. (45 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, (does not count as an hdc), hdc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. Place a marker in the two front loops of the same hdc. (45 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, slipstitch in the back loop of each hdc. Join with slipstitch in front loop of first slipstitch. (45 sts)
Round 8: Slipstitch into the 2 marked loops of the first hdc of round 6, do not remove marker. Ch 2, turn, working in the two remaining loops of the hdc of round 6, 2 dc in the next stitch (not the marked st) and each st around. Make the last 2 dc in the marked st. Remove marker. Join with slipstitch in first dc. (90 dc)
Round 9-11: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in first dc. (90 sts)
Round 12: Sc in same st as join. *Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Ch 2 and join with slipstitch in top of first sc.
Fasten off.
Round 13: Join contrasting yarn with a slipstitch in same sc as join. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 4 dc in same st (beginning shell). *5 Dc (shell) in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (30 shells)
Fasten off.
6 inch doll
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn 2 colors (main 2 oz, contrast 1.5 oz)
Crochet hook size H (5.0 mm)
Stitch marker (I used a bobby pin)
NOTES:
1. Read notes and instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Round 1 has 7 dc (counting the ch 3 as a dc) on one end and the opposite end has 6 dc. That’s intentional, to make it work out to 45 sts.
3. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the slip stitch tight.
4. Hdc shows three loops, the two you always see and a third on the back. You will be working first in the back loop and after turning working in the remaining two loops.
5. I used Red Heart Super Saver for the bassinet in the photo.
6. The doll was purchased at Wal-Mart.
7. Cut a piece of flannel 8 X 8 inches for blanket.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Starting at base, with white leaving a 6 inch tail, ch 21
Round 1: 3 dc (counts as a dc) in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 16 ch, 6 dc in last ch, working along opposite side of starting ch and over beginning tail, dc in next 16 ch, 3 dc in last ch. Join with slipstitch in top of ch 3. (45 sts)
Rounds 2-5: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in top of first dc. (45 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, (does not count as an hdc), hdc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in back loop of first hdc. Place a marker in the two front loops of the same hdc. (45 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, slipstitch in the back loop of each hdc. Join with slipstitch in front loop of first slipstitch. (45 sts)
Round 8: Slipstitch into the 2 marked loops of the first hdc of round 6, do not remove marker. Ch 2, turn, working in the two remaining loops of the hdc of round 6, 2 dc in the next stitch (not the marked st) and each st around. Make the last 2 dc in the marked st. Remove marker. Join with slipstitch in first dc. (90 dc)
Round 9-11: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, dc in each dc around. Join with slipstitch in first dc. (90 sts)
Round 12: Sc in same st as join. *Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * around. Ch 2 and join with slipstitch in top of first sc.
Fasten off.
Round 13: Join contrasting yarn with a slipstitch in same sc as join. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 4 dc in same st (beginning shell). *5 Dc (shell) in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (30 shells)
Fasten off.
EDGING: Attach contrasting yarn in any slipstitch of round 7. Rev sc in each slipstitch of round 7 (you will actually be working in the same sts the slipstitches were worked). Do not join, fasten off and use the yarn needle to join and weave in end.
DRAWSTRINGS: (make 2) With main color, make a ch 36" long (approximately 120 ch). Fasten off.
Starting at one end of bassinet, weave drawstring in and out of the ch 2 loops of round 12. Tie ends of chain together.
Starting at the opposite end weave second drawstring in and out of the ch 2 loops of round 12 and tie ends of chain together at opposite end of bassinet.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
SUZIE’S PRETTY BUTTERFLY CAP (C)
SUZIE’S PRETTY BUTTERFLY CAP
SIZES:
Woman’s (21 inches)
Tween/Teen’s (16-18 inches)
Baby/Child’s (15-16 inch)
MATERIALS:
Woman’s:
Worsted weight yarn, about 2 ounces
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 6 dc = 2 inches
Tween/Teen’s:
Light worsted weight yarn, about 1.5 ounces
G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 7 dc = 2 inches
Child’s
Sports Weight, about 1 ounce
Size F (4.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 8 dc = 2 inches
All Sizes:
Yarn needle
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the slip stitch tight.
3. All sizes are made with the same pattern. The different yarns and hook sizes make it the different sizes. Yarns I used in developing this pattern: Woman’s Red Heart Super Saver, Tween/Teen’s Simply Soft, and Child’s Red Heart Sport.
4. If you don't want to make a bullion for the body, you can use one of the methods I used on the Butterfly Garden caps.
SIZES:
Woman’s (21 inches)
Tween/Teen’s (16-18 inches)
Baby/Child’s (15-16 inch)
MATERIALS:
Woman’s:
Worsted weight yarn, about 2 ounces
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 6 dc = 2 inches
Tween/Teen’s:
Light worsted weight yarn, about 1.5 ounces
G (4.5 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 7 dc = 2 inches
Child’s
Sports Weight, about 1 ounce
Size F (4.0 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 8 dc = 2 inches
All Sizes:
Yarn needle
NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. When joining with a slip stitch, pull the slip stitch tight.
3. All sizes are made with the same pattern. The different yarns and hook sizes make it the different sizes. Yarns I used in developing this pattern: Woman’s Red Heart Super Saver, Tween/Teen’s Simply Soft, and Child’s Red Heart Sport.
4. If you don't want to make a bullion for the body, you can use one of the methods I used on the Butterfly Garden caps.
Round 1: Ch 4 and join with a slip stitch in first ch to form ring. Ch 2, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in ring; join in first dc. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 2, (do not count as first dc), 2 dc in each st, join in first dc. (24 dc)
ROUND 3: Ch 2, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch. (36 Sts)
ROUND 3: Ch 2, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch. (36 Sts)
ROUND 4: Ch 2, (dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch. (48 Sts)
ROUND 5: Ch 2, (dc in 3 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch. (60 Sts)
ROUND 6: Ch 1, sc in ea st, join with a slipstitch.
ROUND 5: Ch 2, (dc in 3 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch. (60 Sts)
ROUND 6: Ch 1, sc in ea st, join with a slipstitch.
ROUND 7: Ch 2, (dc in 14 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around, join with a slipstitch. (64 Sts)
ROUNDS 8-9: Ch 2, dc every st, join with a slipstitch. (64 Sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in ea st, join with a slipstitch. (64 Sts)
Round 11: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 14 dc. *Ch 6, skip 7 sts, dc in next 42 dc, join with slipstitch in beginning dc (57 dc and 1 ch 6 loop)
Round 12: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 14 dc. *Ch 6, skip ch 6 loop, dc in next 42 dc, join with slipstitch in beginning dc. (57 dc and 1 ch 6 loop)
Round 13: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 14 dc. *Ch 3, yo 6 times, insert hook into 4th of 7 skipped dc stitches of round 10, pull up a loop (around the two ch 6 loops), yo and pull through all 8 loops at once (bullion completed), ch 3, dc in next 42 dc. Join with slipstitch in beginning dc. (57 dc and 1 butterfly)
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 14 dc. *3 sc in ch 3 loop, skip the bullion, 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in next 42 dc. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (63 sc)
Rounds 15-16: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (64 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
ROUNDS 8-9: Ch 2, dc every st, join with a slipstitch. (64 Sts)
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in ea st, join with a slipstitch. (64 Sts)
Round 11: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 14 dc. *Ch 6, skip 7 sts, dc in next 42 dc, join with slipstitch in beginning dc (57 dc and 1 ch 6 loop)
Round 12: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 14 dc. *Ch 6, skip ch 6 loop, dc in next 42 dc, join with slipstitch in beginning dc. (57 dc and 1 ch 6 loop)
Round 13: Ch 2, (don’t count as first dc), dc in same st as join, dc in next 14 dc. *Ch 3, yo 6 times, insert hook into 4th of 7 skipped dc stitches of round 10, pull up a loop (around the two ch 6 loops), yo and pull through all 8 loops at once (bullion completed), ch 3, dc in next 42 dc. Join with slipstitch in beginning dc. (57 dc and 1 butterfly)
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 14 dc. *3 sc in ch 3 loop, skip the bullion, 3 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in next 42 dc. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (63 sc)
Rounds 15-16: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around. Join with slipstitch in beginning sc. (64 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Friday, August 21, 2009
LITTLE CUTIE BAG (C)
SIZE: about 4 inches wide and 5.5 inches tall.Materials:
Worsted weight yarn about 25 yards
Novelty yarn about 25 yards
Pair of child’s bracelets
Stitch marker
N hook
Yarn needle
Notes:
1. Read the instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. On these little bags I work from the inside. When on round 2 it cups up, I let it and just keep going around and around.
3. Bangle Bracelets are from Michaels 14 in a package, on their $1 aisle.
4. The easiest way to crochet over the bracelet is to hold it behind your work with the top of the bracelet even with the top of the bag.
5. I used Red Heart Super Saver and Patons Cha Cha or Lion Brand Fun Fur. The photo is with Cha Cha Vegas and RHSS Lavender.
6. Novelty yarns seem to be fluffier on the wrong side of the piece. So use your judgment as to right and wrong side. In my case the wrong side becomes the right side. To fluff the novelty yarn I use a small hair brush and gently brush the right side of the item.
Instructions:
Bag is worked entirely with two strands, one of worsted weight and one of novelty yarn held as one.
Ch 9.
Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 6 chs, 3 sc in last ch, working along opposite side of starting ch and over beginning tail, sc in 6 sts. (18 sc).
Do not join, work in continuous rounds use a marker to delineate beginning of rounds.
Rounds 2-11: Sc in each st. (18 sc)
Round 12: Sc in 6 sts. That should bring you around so that the next 3 sts are the center of one side of bag, if they aren’t work more or less sts. Working over the first bracelet, sc in next 3 sts. Sc in next 6 sts. Working over the second bracelet, sc in next 3 sts.
Round 13: Slipstitch in each st around. (18 slipstitches)
Slipstitch in next st and fasten off.
Weave in ends.
CORKSCREW SQUARE
Bonnie Pierce graciously has hosted this pattern on her website since 2003. Thanks Bonnie.
SIZE: 6 or 7 inch square
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn
G Hook
Worsted weight yarn
G Hook
INSTRUCTIONS:
Chain 4, join with slipstitch to form ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring. (16 sc)
Round 2: Ch 12, 3 sc in 2nd stitch from hook, 3 sc in each chain (33 sc), Sc in next 2 stitches of round 1. Repeat around there should be 8 spirals.
Round 3: Ch 6, slipstitch in first sc at tip (spiral should be twisted clockwise) of spiral, ch 6 slipstitch in 2 sc of round 2, repeat around, 16 chain 6 loops.
Round 4: Slipstitch in chains of ch 6 loop to point of spiral, slipstitch in slipstitch, chain 6 slipstitch in slipstitch in point of spiral, repeat around (8 chain 6 loops)
Round 5: Sc into first chain 6 loop, [chain 8, sc in same loop, ch 4, sc in next loop, ch 4 sc, in next loop]. Repeat [ ] around. (12 loops)
Round 6: Slipstitch in first ch 8 loop, 9 sc in loop, 4 sc in each ch 4 loop, 9 sc in each ch 8 loop, join with slipstitch in bl of 1st sc. (68 sc)
Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) dc in bl of each sc around, working 2 dc, ch 2, 2dc in center stitch of 9 sc for corner. Slipstitch in top of ch 3. (80 dc)
This should be a 6 inch square for a 7 inch square work another round of dc with 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in corners slipstitch in top of ch 3 (96 dc) and fasten off.
Abreviations:
Ch = chain
Sc = Single crochet
Dc = Double crochet
Ss = Slip stitch
Bl = Back loop
Chain 4, join with slipstitch to form ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring. (16 sc)
Round 2: Ch 12, 3 sc in 2nd stitch from hook, 3 sc in each chain (33 sc), Sc in next 2 stitches of round 1. Repeat around there should be 8 spirals.
Round 3: Ch 6, slipstitch in first sc at tip (spiral should be twisted clockwise) of spiral, ch 6 slipstitch in 2 sc of round 2, repeat around, 16 chain 6 loops.
Round 4: Slipstitch in chains of ch 6 loop to point of spiral, slipstitch in slipstitch, chain 6 slipstitch in slipstitch in point of spiral, repeat around (8 chain 6 loops)
Round 5: Sc into first chain 6 loop, [chain 8, sc in same loop, ch 4, sc in next loop, ch 4 sc, in next loop]. Repeat [ ] around. (12 loops)
Round 6: Slipstitch in first ch 8 loop, 9 sc in loop, 4 sc in each ch 4 loop, 9 sc in each ch 8 loop, join with slipstitch in bl of 1st sc. (68 sc)
Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) dc in bl of each sc around, working 2 dc, ch 2, 2dc in center stitch of 9 sc for corner. Slipstitch in top of ch 3. (80 dc)
This should be a 6 inch square for a 7 inch square work another round of dc with 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in corners slipstitch in top of ch 3 (96 dc) and fasten off.
Abreviations:
Ch = chain
Sc = Single crochet
Dc = Double crochet
Ss = Slip stitch
Bl = Back loop
