Sunday, May 05, 2013
ANGEL WING BABY PINAFORE
Sleeves without the optional picot shell edge.
Sleeve on the left has the optional picot shell edge.
Thank you Maxine Gonser for graciously allowing me to revise her pattern to be worked in the round.
Thank you Virginia J for testing this pattern.
ANGEL WING BABY PINAFORE
MATERIALS:
Sport weight (3) yarn less than 3 ounces
US H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Sport weight (3) yarn less than 3 ounces
US H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
1 or 2 buttons that will fit snugly through row 2
GAUGE:
7 sts = 2 inches
2 rows of dc = 1
inch
SIZE:
At underarm = 18
inches
Length neckline
to hem = 10 inches
NOTES:
- Read instructions through before beginning.
- I based this pattern on Maxine Gonser’s Angel Wing Newborn Pinafore on Bev’s Country Cottage: http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/angel-wings-pinafore.html
- The measurements above are for a pinafore
crocheted with Bernat Baby Sport.
If you want a larger pinafore use worsted weight and the appropriate
size hook.
- If you don’t like working into the back bump,
you can just work into the stitch normally.
- The turning chain twos do not count as a double
crochet.
Ch 52, leaving
about a 10 inch tail. More about the
tail later.
Row 1: Sc in back bump of second ch from hook an in each ch across. (51 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2. turn. Dc in each of next 3 sts. * 2dc in next st. dc in each of next 3 sts. repeat from * 11 times. (63 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2. turn. Dc in each of the next 3 sts. * 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * 11 times. (75 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2.turn. dc in each of the next 4 sts. * 2 dc in the next st.dc in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * 13 times. Dc in each of the remaining sts. (89 sts)
Join with slip
stitch in first true dc of row 4, to begin working in rounds. We will keep the same numbering sequence. From here on the chain 3 counts as a double
crochet.
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in the same st. *Skip next st, shell (2dc ch 2 2dc) in next st. Repeat from * around. 2dc in last dc. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (44 shells)
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in the same st. *Skip next st, shell (2dc ch 2 2dc) in next st. Repeat from * around. 2dc in last dc. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (44 shells)
Round 6: Ch
3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in
next 5 shells, ch 3, skip 10 shells, shell in next 13 shells, ch 3, skip 10
shells, shell in next 5 shells, 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc
in beginning ch 3 to form last shell.
(24 shells)
Round 7: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in 5 shells, dc in each of next 3 ch, shell in next 13 shells, dc in each of 3 ch, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (24 shells)
Round 8: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in next 5 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 13 shells, skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (26 shells)
Round 7: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in 5 shells, dc in each of next 3 ch, shell in next 13 shells, dc in each of 3 ch, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (24 shells)
Round 8: Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc. Shell in next 5 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 13 shells, skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell. (26 shells)
Rounds 9-17: Ch 3, dc in the space created by hdc. Shell in each shell around. 2dc in space where
first 2 dc were worked. Hdc in beginning
ch 3.
(26 shells)
If using a
contrasting color for the final round fasten off and start next round with the
contrasting yarn.
Round 18: Ch
3, 2dc in the space created by hdc. *In
next shell 3dc , ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch, 3dc all in same
space. Repeat from * around. 3dc in space where first 3 dc were worked,
ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch.
Fasten off and use tapestry needle to join to beginning ch3. (26 shells)
Weave in end.
Remember the beginning tail? Use that to sew on the button. Use a space in row 2 for the buttonhole.
Optional Sleeve Edging:
Attach yarn with a sc in the
center ch of the underarm ch3, sc in next ch.
*In next shell 2dc , ch3, slip stitch in back
bump of first ch, 2dc all in same space.
Repeat from * around. (there will
be 12 picot shells) Sc in last of the underarm chains. Fasten off and weave in end. (if you prefer you can join with a slip
stitch before fastening off, but I prefer joining with my tapestry needle.
Repeat for
second sleeve.
Comments:
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Thank you so much for revising this pattern. I love it so much, but when I followed the original pattern the stitches were off and my rows were wonky. I like doing it in the round so that it is a dress. I made a successful one using your instructions. Thank you, again!
# posted by 
: 4:21 PM
: 4:21 PM 
Thanks Suzetta.
Just one question. What do you mean in round 6 skip 10 shells?
I love your work.
Mary
Just one question. What do you mean in round 6 skip 10 shells?
I love your work.
Mary
The measurements for the yarn I used are listed.
You can use whatever yarn you want, but if you don't get the same gauge the measurements will be different.
You can use whatever yarn you want, but if you don't get the same gauge the measurements will be different.
When you say 18 inches at underam, are you measuring width of the dress? My gauge was pretty close, ( 6 stitches instead of 7) and the dress looks right, but from underarm to underarm is 10 inches across. If I measure width at the bottom of the dress that's more like 18 inches. I want to give this as a gift, but wondering if it's too small.
I was hoping to make this for my 7 month old baby. Do you have any suggestions on how/where to add stitches to adjust the size? Thanks so much!
I would try it with worsted weight yarn and an I hook. You should be able to see if the yoke is big enough without a lot of work. Then just work more rounds of the skirt until it is the length you want.
My great niece wears size 18 month clothing. My sister saw the one I made ( 0-3 month) and wants one for her granddaughter. Can I add 10 stitches to make it bigger. ie. chain 62 instead od 52??
# posted by : 3:17 PM
: 3:17 PM
You could try that, then try it on her when you get the yoke done. Something else you could try is worsted weight yarn and an I (5.5mm) hook and see what size that makes.
When you say skip the shells, do u mean slip stitch across them?
Sorry this is my first dress I'm making x
Sorry this is my first dress I'm making x
No when you "skip" you do not work in the skipped stitches at all. This forms the armhole. Good luck with your project.
Does anyone know how to alter this pattern I to take 12 month size? I found a 2T but I would love it 9-12 month and I'm not that talented. Thank you!
The pattern is written for a 3 weight and the H hook. I don't know, perhaps with a 4 weight and an I hook it would be large enough.
Can you tell me what size buttons you used on the original pattern. Thanks so much love this pattern!
I made the original and now would love to make this version in the round. Would there be a bonnet or headband with matching booties by chance?
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# posted by : 2:37 PM
: 2:37 PM << Home
