Sunday, January 20, 2008
FEBRUARY HEARTS BAG (c)
Those of you who have made my Shell Stitch Bag will recognize this pattern. It is a variation of that pattern all gussied up for Valentine's giving.
A small exterior pocket and hearts on the ends of the drawstrings, make this a cutie for the little girl in your life.
MATERIALS:Worsted weight yarn 3.5 oz for bag
Small amount of red for heart and drawstrings
CD for base of bag
H (5.0mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving ends
MATERIALS:Worsted weight yarn 3.5 oz for bag
Small amount of red for heart and drawstrings
CD for base of bag
H (5.0mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving ends
GAUGE: 4 dc = 1 inch
SIZE: 6 inches in diameter and 8 inches tall
INSTRUCTIONS:
INSIDE BASE:Round 1: Ch 3, (do not count as first dc) 12 dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as first dc from now on), 2 dc in each st. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (24 sts)
Round 3: Ch 2, (dc in 1 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, (dc in 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) repeat around. Join with a slipstitch in first dc. (48 sts)
Fasten off, weave ends into back of work.
OUTSIDE BASE:Round 1-4: Rep rounds 1 - 4 of inside base but DO NOT fasten off. Ch1.
OUTSIDE BASE:Round 1-4: Rep rounds 1 - 4 of inside base but DO NOT fasten off. Ch1.
SIDE:Round 5: Put both pieces together, wrong sides facing each other. Working through both layers, insert hook through same st as slipstitch and through any sc on the other layer. Work a *sc in 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around. Insert CD before closing. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (60 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in join. *Skip 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 st, sc in next st* repeat around, ending skip 2, 5 dc in next st. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (10 shells)
Round 7: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st as join. *Sc in 3rd dc, 5 dc in next sc*, repeat around, ending with sc in 3rd dc. Join with a slipstitch in top of ch 3. (10 shells)
Round 8: Slipstitch in 2 dc, ch 1, sc in same dc, *5 dc in next sc, sc in 3rd dc* repeat around, ending with 5 dc in next sc. Join with a slipstitch in first sc. (10 shells)
Rounds 9-20: Repeat rounds 7 and 8.
Round 21 (eyelet round): Ch 3, [ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, tc in next st] repeat around, ending with slipstitch in third chain of ch 3.
Round 22: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *skip ch, 5 dc in next st, skip ch, sc in next st* repeat around, ending with skip ch, 5 dc in next st. Join with slipstitch in first sc. (15 shells)
Fasten off white.
Round 23: Attach red with a sc in the center st of any 5 dc shell. *Sc in next st, (insert hook in next st, yo and pull through) repeat twice, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook. Sc in next st, 3 sc in next st (center dc of shell). Repeat from * around.
DRAWSTRINGS: Make 2
Chain 4, work all stitches in the first chain. 3 tr, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 tr, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 tr, chain 2, slip stitch.
Chain 4, work all stitches in the first chain. 3 tr, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 tr, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 tr, chain 2, slip stitch.
Ch 90, work all stitches in the fourth chain from hook. 3 tr, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 tr, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 tr, chain 2, slip stitch.
Now slipstitch in each ch to other heart. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Now slipstitch in each ch to other heart. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Weave drawstrings in and out of eyelet round starting on opposite sides. Tie the ends of drawstrings in an overhand knot about an inch from the hearts.
LARGE HEART MOTIF FOR POCKET
Round 1: Chain 4, work all stitches in the first chain. 3 trc, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 trc, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 trc, chain 2 slip stitch.
Round 2: Chain 3, in first trc make sc and hdc, in next stitch 3 hdc, in next stitch 2 hdc, 1 sc in next four stitches, chain1 dc in trc chain 1, sc in next four stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, 3 hdc in next stitch, hdc and sc in next stitch, chain 3 and slip stitch in joining. Fasten off.
Round 3: Attach white with slipstitch in dip of heart. Ch 2, slipstitch in next st. Repeat around. Fasten off.
Weave in ends and sew heart about an inch above round 5. Leave the top of heart open for a pocket.
LARGE HEART MOTIF FOR POCKET
Round 1: Chain 4, work all stitches in the first chain. 3 trc, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 trc, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 trc, chain 2 slip stitch.
Round 2: Chain 3, in first trc make sc and hdc, in next stitch 3 hdc, in next stitch 2 hdc, 1 sc in next four stitches, chain1 dc in trc chain 1, sc in next four stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, 3 hdc in next stitch, hdc and sc in next stitch, chain 3 and slip stitch in joining. Fasten off.
Round 3: Attach white with slipstitch in dip of heart. Ch 2, slipstitch in next st. Repeat around. Fasten off.
Weave in ends and sew heart about an inch above round 5. Leave the top of heart open for a pocket.
HEART GARLAND (c)
HEART GARLAND
Materials:Worsted weight yarn, amount will depend on how long you make your garland
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Size: Approximately 2.5 inches across each heart
Instructions:
Chain 24 and make heart (pattern below) in the 4th ch from hook, repeat for the length you want. End by chaining 20 and fastening off.
Heart:
Make all stitches in the designated chain. 3 tc, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 tc, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 tc, chain 2, slip stitch. Fasten off.
Notes:
1. Any size yarn and appropriate hook can be used. With size 10 thread it makes a delicate garland, worsted weight makes a more “county” look.
2. When you re crocheting the second half of the heart you will be crocheting over the chain as well.
Materials:Worsted weight yarn, amount will depend on how long you make your garland
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Size: Approximately 2.5 inches across each heart
Instructions:
Chain 24 and make heart (pattern below) in the 4th ch from hook, repeat for the length you want. End by chaining 20 and fastening off.
Heart:
Make all stitches in the designated chain. 3 tc, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 tc, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 tc, chain 2, slip stitch. Fasten off.
Notes:
1. Any size yarn and appropriate hook can be used. With size 10 thread it makes a delicate garland, worsted weight makes a more “county” look.
2. When you re crocheting the second half of the heart you will be crocheting over the chain as well.
Monday, January 14, 2008
FEBRUARY CHEVRON BAG (c)
11/14/09 Pattern edited to add * in front of the first yarn over of cluster stitch.
CHEVRON BAG
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight feltable yarn, approximately 7 ounces main color, 1 ounce of contrasting color
K hook
GAUGE: Unimportant, but bag should be worked loosely.
PATTERN NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Check your bag often during the felting process. The strap will need to be stretched crosswise about half way through the process or it may roll and felt to itself. So unless you want that look, check and stretch,
3. I blocked my bag on a book that is 8.5 wide by 1.25 thick.
4. After pulling bag into shape and getting it on the book, I place a second book on top of the flap to get it nice and flat.
INSTRUCTIONS:
With main color, ch 44
ROUND 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (41) to last chain. Work over yarn tail for remainder of this round. 3 sc in last ch. Work in the unused loops on opposite side of starting chain, sc in each chain. (42 stitches) Join with slip stitch in top of first sc. [88 sc]
ROUND 2-28: Ch 2 (this counts as turning ch and not the first stitch), hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [88 hdc] Fasten off.
CHEVRON FLAP: Worked over 42 sts
Special stitch: Cluster = *Yarn over (yo), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * 2 times..
Fold bag flat and mark upper right hand corner. Join yarn with a slip stitch in marked stitch.
Row 1-12: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), cluster. Dc in next 3 stitches, 3 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, cluster twice. Repeat once. Dc in next 3 stitches, 3 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, cluster. (42 sts)
Change colors as desired. The bag in photo yarn was changed every row.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
STRAP:
Row 1: Sc in same st as the beginning st of flap, sc in 4 sts, ch 1 turn. (5 sc)
Row 2-60: Sc in each st, ch 1 turn. [20 inches]
Repeat on other side. Sew strap ends together.
FELT AND BLOCK:
You can find complete felting instructions here:
http://suzies-yarnie-stuff.blogspot.com/2006/01/how-to-felt-or-full.html
CHEVRON BAG
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight feltable yarn, approximately 7 ounces main color, 1 ounce of contrasting color
K hook
GAUGE: Unimportant, but bag should be worked loosely.
PATTERN NOTES:
1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. Check your bag often during the felting process. The strap will need to be stretched crosswise about half way through the process or it may roll and felt to itself. So unless you want that look, check and stretch,
3. I blocked my bag on a book that is 8.5 wide by 1.25 thick.
4. After pulling bag into shape and getting it on the book, I place a second book on top of the flap to get it nice and flat.
INSTRUCTIONS:
With main color, ch 44
ROUND 1: Make 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each chain (41) to last chain. Work over yarn tail for remainder of this round. 3 sc in last ch. Work in the unused loops on opposite side of starting chain, sc in each chain. (42 stitches) Join with slip stitch in top of first sc. [88 sc]
ROUND 2-28: Ch 2 (this counts as turning ch and not the first stitch), hdc in each st around. Join with a slipstitch in top of first hdc. [88 hdc] Fasten off.
CHEVRON FLAP: Worked over 42 sts
Special stitch: Cluster = *Yarn over (yo), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * 2 times..
Fold bag flat and mark upper right hand corner. Join yarn with a slip stitch in marked stitch.
Row 1-12: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), cluster. Dc in next 3 stitches, 3 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, cluster twice. Repeat once. Dc in next 3 stitches, 3 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, cluster. (42 sts)
Change colors as desired. The bag in photo yarn was changed every row.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
STRAP:
Row 1: Sc in same st as the beginning st of flap, sc in 4 sts, ch 1 turn. (5 sc)
Row 2-60: Sc in each st, ch 1 turn. [20 inches]
Repeat on other side. Sew strap ends together.
FELT AND BLOCK:
You can find complete felting instructions here:
http://suzies-yarnie-stuff.blogspot.com/2006/01/how-to-felt-or-full.html
Thursday, January 10, 2008
SWS ONE BALL EYELET BEANIE (c)
This pattern is for a close fitting beanie. It is done in single crochets to take full advantage of the stripes. SWS has only 110 yards per ball and the challenge was to make a beanie that covers the ears yet only takes one ball. I achieved this by incorporating eyelets into the beanie.
Size: Women’s medium
Materials:
1 skein Paton’s SWS (Soy Wool Stripes) 2.8 ounces (80 gm)
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 14 sc and 14 rows = 4 inches (If your gauge is off you may not have enough yarn to complete the beanie.)
Instructions:
Read the notes at the bottom of the pattern before beginning.
Round 1: Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each stitch. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (16 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (20 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (25 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (30 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (36 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, *sc in 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (42 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1, *sc in 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (48 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (32 sc, 8 loops)
Round 10: Ch 1, *sc in each sc (and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop) increasing in every 8th stitch. (When 8th stitch falls in a loop you will have 3 sc in that loop.) Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (54 sc)
Round 11: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (36 sc, 9 loops)
Round 12: Ch 1, *sc in each sc (and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop) increasing in every 9th stitch. (When 9th stitch falls in a loop you will have 3 sc in that loop.) Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (60 sc)
Round 13: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (40 sc, 10 loops)
Round 14: Ch 1, *sc in each sc (and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop) increasing in every 10th stitch. (When 10th stitch falls in a loop you will have 3 sc in that loop.) Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 16: Ch 1, sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 18: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 20: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 21: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 22: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 23: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 24: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 26: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Round 27: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 28: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Round 29-31 or 32: Sc in each sc around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Notes:
This pattern is written for Paton’s SWS (Soy Wool Stripes) but any worsted weight yarn should be okay. I have crocheted it using Red Heart Super Saver with good results.
This pattern is for a close fitting beanie. It may seem tight at first but crocheted items stretch after wearing a short while and will loosen up.
If your gauge is off you may not have enough yarn to complete 32 rounds, but 31 rounds seems to be a serviceable length.
I had one skein of SWS that had 6 knots in it and there was only enough yarn for 31 rows.
Size: Women’s medium
Materials:
1 skein Paton’s SWS (Soy Wool Stripes) 2.8 ounces (80 gm)
I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Gauge: 14 sc and 14 rows = 4 inches (If your gauge is off you may not have enough yarn to complete the beanie.)
Instructions:
Read the notes at the bottom of the pattern before beginning.
Round 1: Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each stitch. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (16 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (20 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, *sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (25 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (30 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (36 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, *sc in 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (42 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1, *sc in 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (48 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (32 sc, 8 loops)
Round 10: Ch 1, *sc in each sc (and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop) increasing in every 8th stitch. (When 8th stitch falls in a loop you will have 3 sc in that loop.) Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (54 sc)
Round 11: Ch 1, *sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (36 sc, 9 loops)
Round 12: Ch 1, *sc in each sc (and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop) increasing in every 9th stitch. (When 9th stitch falls in a loop you will have 3 sc in that loop.) Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (60 sc)
Round 13: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (40 sc, 10 loops)
Round 14: Ch 1, *sc in each sc (and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop) increasing in every 10th stitch. (When 10th stitch falls in a loop you will have 3 sc in that loop.) Repeat from * around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 16: Ch 1, sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 18: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 19: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 20: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 21: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 22: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 23: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 24: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc (66 sc)
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 26: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Round 27: Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Ending sc in 4 sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, join with a slipstitch in first sc. (44 sc, 11 loops)
Round 28: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 loop around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Round 29-31 or 32: Sc in each sc around. Join with a slipstitch in the first sc. (66 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Notes:
This pattern is written for Paton’s SWS (Soy Wool Stripes) but any worsted weight yarn should be okay. I have crocheted it using Red Heart Super Saver with good results.
This pattern is for a close fitting beanie. It may seem tight at first but crocheted items stretch after wearing a short while and will loosen up.
If your gauge is off you may not have enough yarn to complete 32 rounds, but 31 rounds seems to be a serviceable length.
I had one skein of SWS that had 6 knots in it and there was only enough yarn for 31 rows.
JANUARY ON THE TOWN BAG (c)
This cute little bag can go with you to dinner, church or dancing.
It can be lined or left unlined. If you decide to skip the lining you will need to put your stuff in a small zippered bag, like a cosmetic bag. But lining it will only take a few minutes and the simplest sewing, and you’ll be ready to go.
EDITED LINING INSTRUCTIONS 2/14/08
Materials:
Worsted weight Red Heart Super Saver approximately 1.5 ounces
Lion Brand Fun Fur or Fun Fur Stripes ball (1.5 ounce each)
Set of 5 inch round plastic purse handles
N hook
Optional materials for lining:
¼ yard coordinating fabric
Thread to match lining fabric
Fusion Velcro or snap
Notes:
1. Read the instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. I used Dritz #072879 098242, 5 inch plastic handles that I bought at Michaels. (I love those coupons.) I have some smaller handles (about 4 inches) off a purse I bought at Dollar Tree I’m going to try those as well. $1.00 what a great price wish I’d have bought them all.
3. To fluff the Fun Fur I use a small hair brush and gently brush the right side of the item.
Instructions:
Bag is worked entirely with two strands, one of worsted weight and one of Fun Fur held as one.
Ch 8, leave a 9 inch tail for finishing.
Row 1: Dc in 3rd st from hook, dc in remaining 5 chs. Ch 2, turn. [Turning ch 2 doesn’t count as a dc.] (6 dc)
Row 2: Dc in each st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc)
Row 3: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (8 dc)
Row 4: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (10 dc)
Row 5: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (12 dc)
Row 6: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 10 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (14 dc)
Rows 7-19: Dc in each st. Ch 2, turn. (14 dc)
Row 20: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 10 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (12 sts)
Row 21: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 8 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (10 sts)
Row 22: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 6 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (8 sts)
Row 23: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 4 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 24: Dc in each st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc)
Fasten off leaving a 9 inch tail for finishing.
Finishing:
Fold bag in half matching the beginning and ending rows. Match the sides and sew rows 6-19 to each other on both sides of bag. If using the optional lining make that and insert now.
Fold top over one handle and sew top of row 1 to body of bag. Repeat on opposite side.
Optional lining:
Using newspaper draw around bag, rows 6-19 for a pattern. Add ½ seam allowance on all sides (approximately 9 X 15 inches).
Cut one, by placing 9 inch edge on the center fold of lining fabric. This will make a lining piece that is approximately 9 X 30.
You will now create a pouch to insert in your bag. This method will create a pouch with no raw edges on the inside.
Fold the 30 inch strip in half right sides together on center crease. Fold the 9 inch wide raw edges to center crease, wrong sides together.
You now have a piece that is four thicknesses thick, with the 9 inch raw edges even with the center crease. Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance stitch both sides, from the folded edge toward the center crease.
Stitch the center crease edge ¼ inch from fold. If desired stitch around upper edge ¼ inch from edge.
Center a 1.5 inch strip of Fusion Velcro ¼-1/2 inch below top edge of pouch. Fuse in place per product instructions. Or sew a snap to the top edge of lining.
Place pouch inside crocheted bag and sew to top of rows 6 and 19.
Materials:
Worsted weight Red Heart Super Saver approximately 1.5 ounces
Lion Brand Fun Fur or Fun Fur Stripes ball (1.5 ounce each)
Set of 5 inch round plastic purse handles
N hook
Optional materials for lining:
¼ yard coordinating fabric
Thread to match lining fabric
Fusion Velcro or snap
Notes:
1. Read the instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. I used Dritz #072879 098242, 5 inch plastic handles that I bought at Michaels. (I love those coupons.) I have some smaller handles (about 4 inches) off a purse I bought at Dollar Tree I’m going to try those as well. $1.00 what a great price wish I’d have bought them all.
3. To fluff the Fun Fur I use a small hair brush and gently brush the right side of the item.
Instructions:
Bag is worked entirely with two strands, one of worsted weight and one of Fun Fur held as one.
Ch 8, leave a 9 inch tail for finishing.
Row 1: Dc in 3rd st from hook, dc in remaining 5 chs. Ch 2, turn. [Turning ch 2 doesn’t count as a dc.] (6 dc)
Row 2: Dc in each st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc)
Row 3: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (8 dc)
Row 4: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (10 dc)
Row 5: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (12 dc)
Row 6: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 10 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 2, turn. (14 dc)
Rows 7-19: Dc in each st. Ch 2, turn. (14 dc)
Row 20: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 10 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (12 sts)
Row 21: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 8 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (10 sts)
Row 22: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 6 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (8 sts)
Row 23: Dc decrease over first 2 sts, dc in 4 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts. Ch 2, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 24: Dc in each st. Ch 2, turn. (6 dc)
Fasten off leaving a 9 inch tail for finishing.
Finishing:
Fold bag in half matching the beginning and ending rows. Match the sides and sew rows 6-19 to each other on both sides of bag. If using the optional lining make that and insert now.
Fold top over one handle and sew top of row 1 to body of bag. Repeat on opposite side.
Optional lining:
Using newspaper draw around bag, rows 6-19 for a pattern. Add ½ seam allowance on all sides (approximately 9 X 15 inches).
Cut one, by placing 9 inch edge on the center fold of lining fabric. This will make a lining piece that is approximately 9 X 30.
You will now create a pouch to insert in your bag. This method will create a pouch with no raw edges on the inside.
Fold the 30 inch strip in half right sides together on center crease. Fold the 9 inch wide raw edges to center crease, wrong sides together.
You now have a piece that is four thicknesses thick, with the 9 inch raw edges even with the center crease. Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance stitch both sides, from the folded edge toward the center crease.
Stitch the center crease edge ¼ inch from fold. If desired stitch around upper edge ¼ inch from edge.
Center a 1.5 inch strip of Fusion Velcro ¼-1/2 inch below top edge of pouch. Fuse in place per product instructions. Or sew a snap to the top edge of lining.
Place pouch inside crocheted bag and sew to top of rows 6 and 19.