Edited 03/13/2010 to add photos of Mari L's handsome grandson in his 7 Hour Toddler Sweater. Thank you for sharing Mari. You can read about sizing and Mari's yarn choice on her blog:
This sweater is yet another adaptation of Gail Bable’s 5 Hour Baby Boy Sweater, which was based on the 5 Hour Baby Sweater originally posted on Knit List. There are several adaptations on Bev’s Country Cottage. Being larger it takes longer to knit, hence the 7 Hour Toddler Sweater..
This one is considerably larger, to fit 12-18 months.
Thank you Virginia in WA for testing this pattern.
SIZE: 12-18 months
Garment measures 25 inches around, would fit about 22 inch
SIZE: 12-18 months
Garment measures 25 inches around, would fit about 22 inch
MATERIALS:Approximately 6 ounces worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver)
1 ¾ inch button
Size US 10 (6.0 mm)
Stitch holders or waste yarn
Markers
Tapestry needle
1 ¾ inch button
Size US 10 (6.0 mm)
Stitch holders or waste yarn
Markers
Tapestry needle
GAUGE: Approximately 4 sts to 1 inch
NOTES:1. Read instructions all the way through before beginning.
2. I used a 29 inch circular needle.
3. I used waste yarn rather than stitch holders.
4. There isn’t enough yarn in a multicolor Red Heart Super Saver, so either choose a solid color or buy two of the multicolor.
2. I used a 29 inch circular needle.
3. I used waste yarn rather than stitch holders.
4. There isn’t enough yarn in a multicolor Red Heart Super Saver, so either choose a solid color or buy two of the multicolor.
SPECIAL STITCHES:
M1: Make a backward loop and place on right hand needle.
Increase (inc) 1 st in next st: Knit into front and back of that stitch.
M1: Make a backward loop and place on right hand needle.
Increase (inc) 1 st in next st: Knit into front and back of that stitch.
DIRECTIONS:Starting at the neck edge, cast on 37 stitches, using “knitted on cast-on”.
YOKE:
Rows 1 - 3: Knit. (37 sts)
Rows 1 - 3: Knit. (37 sts)
Girl’s Row 4 (buttonhole): Knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, YO, knit 2 (37 sts)
Boy’s Row 4 (buttonhole): Knit 2, YO, K2tog, knit remaining sts. (37 sts)
Row 5: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (37 sts)
(Always keep first 5 and last 5 sts in 'knit' even on p row.)
Row 6: K5, * increase 1 in next st, K1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, end with increase 1, K5. (51 sts)
Row 7: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (51 sts)
Row 8: Knit. (51 sts)
Row 9: Knit. (51 sts)
Row 10: K5, *inc 1 in next st., K2, repeat from * to last 7 sts, ending inc. 1, K6. (65 sts)
Row 11: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (65 sts)
Row 12: Knit. (65 sts)
Row 13: Knit. (65 sts)
Row 14: K6 *increase in next st, K3, repeat from * to last 7 sts, ending with inc. 1, K6. (79 sts)
Row 15: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (79 sts)
Row 16: Knit. (79 sts)
Row 17: Knit. (79 sts)
Row 18: K6 *increase in next st, K4, repeat from * to last 8 sts., ending increase 1, knit 7. (93
sts)
Row 19: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (93 sts)
Row 20: Knit. (93 sts)
Row 21: Knit. (93 sts)
Row 22: K7*increase in next st, K5, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (107 sts)
Row 23: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (107 sts)
Row 24: Knit. (107 sts)
Row 25: Knit. (107 sts)
Row 26: K8*increase in next st, K6, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (121 sts)
Row 27: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (121 sts)
Row 28: Knit. (121 sts)
Row 29: Knit. (121 sts)
Row 30: You will now be placing markers to show positions of fronts, back, and sleeves:
K6, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1,K1, pm (23 sts for front),
K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, pm (26 sts for sleeve),
K1, M1, (K7, M1)five times, K1, pm (43 sts for back),
K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, pm (26 sts for other sleeve),
K1, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K6 (23 sts for other front).
Row 31: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (141 sts)
Row 32: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (149 sts)
Row 33: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (149 sts)
Row 34: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (157 sts)
Row 35: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (157 sts)
SLEEVES:
Row 19: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (93 sts)
Row 20: Knit. (93 sts)
Row 21: Knit. (93 sts)
Row 22: K7*increase in next st, K5, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (107 sts)
Row 23: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (107 sts)
Row 24: Knit. (107 sts)
Row 25: Knit. (107 sts)
Row 26: K8*increase in next st, K6, repeat from * to last 8 sts, ending increase 1, knit 7. (121 sts)
Row 27: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (121 sts)
Row 28: Knit. (121 sts)
Row 29: Knit. (121 sts)
Row 30: You will now be placing markers to show positions of fronts, back, and sleeves:
K6, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1,K1, pm (23 sts for front),
K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, pm (26 sts for sleeve),
K1, M1, (K7, M1)five times, K1, pm (43 sts for back),
K1, M1, K7, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K1, pm (26 sts for other sleeve),
K1, M1, K6, M1, K7, M1, K6 (23 sts for other front).
Row 31: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (141 sts)
Row 32: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (149 sts)
Row 33: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (149 sts)
Row 34: Knit across row, increasing 1 st before and after each marker. (157 sts)
Row 35: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5. (157 sts)
SLEEVES:
Knit 25 sts and place on a holder or waste yarn. CO 2 sts and knit across the next 30 sts (first sleeve), CO 2 sts, Working with another set of needles and on these 34 sts, work in stockinette stitch for 30 rows.
Sleeve Decrease Row: (WS) K1, (K2 tog, K3) 6 times, K2tog, K1. (27 sts)
Knit 7 rows.
Bind off leaving last stitch on needle. With right sides together slip stitch sleeve closed being careful to close up all the holes at the underarm. Place last stitch on left hand needle. Knit 2 tog and knit across to next marker. Place back of sweater stitches that you just knit on a stitch holder or piece of waste yarn.
Work second sleeve same as first.
SWEATER BODY:
Knit across remaining stitches (Body Row 1) and now work body of sweater.
Knit across remaining stitches (Body Row 1) and now work body of sweater.
Body Row 2: K 5, purl to last 5 sts, K5. (97 sts)
Body Row 3: Knit. (97 sts) (97 sts)
Body Row 4: K5, purl to last 5 sts, K5. (97 sts)
Body Rows 5-30: repeat Body Rows 3 and 4. (97 sts)
Knit 8 rows.
Body Row 4: K5, purl to last 5 sts, K5. (97 sts)
Body Rows 5-30: repeat Body Rows 3 and 4. (97 sts)
Knit 8 rows.
Bind off.
Weave in ends and sew on button.
I just copied this pattern and the "Blueberries" hat pattern. I am so looking forward to seeing these completed. They look great in the photos, though it would be nice to see the hat modeled on someone.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your generosity in sharing your patterns!
Carolyne
Yes, it would be nice.
ReplyDeleteTHANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
ReplyDeleteI love the 5 hour sweater and knew that it sould be upsized but didn't feel up to figuring it out myself. Thank you so much. I will be making probably several of these for my almost one year old.
Thank you so much for nice and easy patterns. Hopeing to get back into Knitting and Crochet. Thanks Again for sharing your patterns. Lois Jean
ReplyDeleteI just finished my sweater... its too cute. Thank you....
ReplyDeleteI have made the sweaters and vests for twin granddaughters. I love the patterns. The girls are now 3 and I would love to have the pattern enlarged to fit a 3T-6. I am only a beginner knitter and have no idea how to adjust a pattern.
ReplyDeleteIHave you thought of making a larger size? Thank you
Bette
Some members of my Yahoo Group made it for an older child just by lengthening the sleeves and body. Seems kids grow mostly up not out between 2 and 6.
ReplyDeletedid anyone find the neck a bit tight? also, does anyone know of a matching hat?
ReplyDeleteI found that that's why I don't do the button hole row
DeleteThere are several variations of the 5 Hour sweater matching caps online. This one is a match:
ReplyDeletehttp://suzies-yarnie-stuff.blogspot.com/2012/07/5-hour-tassel-baby-cap.html
Please explain how to "slip stitch" sleeve together. Do you mean to use a crochet hook?
ReplyDeleteI'm at this point in the pattern.
Thank you.
Marie
Yes, slip stitch with a crochet hook.
ReplyDeleteThank you Suzetta. I appreciate your quick response. I can now go forward.
ReplyDeleteMarie
Trying to understand the M1 instruction( row 30.) Can you describe what to do?
ReplyDeleteYou can follow the M1 instructions under special stitches or how ever you like to make one.
ReplyDeletelove this pattern my grand son is only 9 month but he will grow into it .
ReplyDeleteLoved the sweater made it for my grandson he is only nine month only nine months but big for his age he will grow into it .
ReplyDeleteLittle boys grow so fast it will fit before you know it.
ReplyDeleteI made this for my grandson and added a hood it came out great but he will have to grow into it. I have started a second one for him in fall colors.
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteThis is a wonderful pattern - thank you very much. Could you please tell me what ply wool you are using?
Maria
I mostly use Red Heart Super Saver and it is 4 ply.
ReplyDeleteThis has been the best thing I have ever made - looks wonderful finished. I would really love to be able to knit it in a bigger size. Does anyone have pattern for bigger size please?
ReplyDeleteThanks so much. Maria
How much bigger?
ReplyDeleteYou can go bigger by knitting the body and sleeves longer.
Another thing you can do is use a heavier yarn and larger needle.
Like Marie, trying to visualize M1stitch. Which stitch am I knitting in the front and back? The loop over one or the increase stitch? Thank you for sharing, I am eager to finish this for my grand daughter.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.lionbrand.com/faq/77.html
ReplyDeleteI use this method for M1 (make one).
I would love to know how to increase to a size 4 or 6. Any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteSorry, but I haven't worked out a bigger size.
ReplyDeleteI started the "7 Hour Toddler Sweater" and got to the place to put the markers for the front, sleeves, etc. and realize that there were only 121 stitches NOT 141. I looked to see where I made a mistake and cannot see where the extra 20 stitches were added. Am I missing something?
ReplyDeleteYou must not have done the M1 (make 1) stitches on row 30.
ReplyDeleteButton hole rows? Only see 1 mentioned?
ReplyDeleteOne is all I did, as shown in the pictures. You can always add more if you want.
ReplyDeleteWhat does CO 2 sts mean?
ReplyDeleteCast On 2 stitches
ReplyDeleteThanks. That's what I thought. Just wanted to be sure ��
DeleteLove this pattern, but I am struggling with the first sleeve. Namely the instructions that say
ReplyDelete“Bind off leaving last stitch on needle. With right sides together slip stitch sleeve closed being careful to close up all holes at the underarm. Place last stitch on left hand needle.”
I have always cut the thread after bind off and started new thread. Is there a link that you can direct me to to so I can better understand. I used a crochet needle to help with the slip stitch but that still leaves working thread running up through the sleeve.
I am sure I must be overthinking this. Thank you
You should be working from the cuff back up to the body.
ReplyDeleteWhen doing the increases and make 1 what is the reason that you do a make 1. I didn’t notice it in the smaller patterns so could you do something different or not do at all. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteMany people have knit it using these instructions, so I feel comfortable with them. I guess you could try some other way and see how it turns out for you. One thing about knitting is it's easy to fudge it.
ReplyDeleteIs the make 1 simply knit front and back?
ReplyDeleteI like this M1:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.lionbrand.com/how-to-knit-increasing-between
I’m stuck on row 30 - I seem to be 19 stitches short and yet I’m starting with the right amount of stitches?!
ReplyDeleteM1 is make 1. Sounds like you didn't do those.
ReplyDeleteHi im stuck at the the section after row 35 it got is far as knit 25 put on holder but after that im confused.
ReplyDeleteThat is where you start the sleeve. You cast on 2 on a new needle, k 30 sts and cast on 2 more. The 2 before and after the 30 are the underarm.
ReplyDeleteHi do i used a new yarn to cast on or the same yarn i was using
DeleteUse same yarn.
ReplyDeleteHi is there a video demo on this pattern
ReplyDeleteNo video!
ReplyDeleteHi is the a hat pattern
ReplyDeleteI don't have a matching hat on my blog.
ReplyDeleteCan you tell me approximate length from underarm to the bottom of sweater when finished?
ReplyDeletet can be knit as long as you like. I haven't knit one in many years so do know that answer.
ReplyDeleteInstead of darning possible holes under the sleeves a pretty neat finish was obtained by the following technique
ReplyDeleteWhen the second sleeve is completed and the edges sewn up-Join in the yarn and knit across the remaining 25 stitches( to complete that row.
Next row K5, P19,* Slip next stitch on right needle, pick up a loop between the two CO stitches with left needle, place the slipped stitch back on the left needle. P2 tog. Pick up loop between the other 2 CO sts with left needle, and P2tog.* Keep purling across back until one stitch before sleeve and repeat * to * purl 19 K5.