Wednesday, May 15, 2013

VERY EASY SCARFLET


VERY EASY SCARFLET

This Very Easy Scarflet would make a great first project for the new knitter. 

No remarks about my turkey neck please

I’m knitting a bunch of these and the Fold Up Cuff Cap as sets for my charity giving this fall.


SIZE:
Ends = 7 inches
Ribbed section = 3.75 inches
Length = 32 inches

NOTES:
  1. Read instructions through before beginning.
  2. To make a wider scarflet cast on additional stitches in increments of 4.
  3. To make a longer scarflet work rows 9 and 10 until about 1.5 inches shorter than desired.
  4. Scarflet in photo was knit with Red Heart Super Saver in Buff Fleck.  There was plenty in the 5 ounce skein for the scarflet and cap.  If you make it wider or longer it will take more yarn…duh!

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight (4) yarn approximately 2.25 ounces (120 yards)
US size 9 (5.5 mm) and 10.5 (6.5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle

INSTRUCTIONS:
With 10.5 needles cast on 26 sts.

Rows 1-8: K

Switch to size 9 needles.

Row 9:  K2, P2 across, end with K2.
Row 10:  P2, K2 across end with P2.

Repeat rows 9 and 10 until scarf is about 31 inches from cast on edge, ending with row 9.

Switch back to size 10.5 needles.

Knit 8 rows.

Bind off and weave in ends.


Friday, May 10, 2013

EASY EARFLAP CAP IN 2 SIZES


Thank you Virginia, for testing this pattern.

EASY EARFLAP CAP IN 2 SIZES



MATERIALS:
Smaller (14-15 inches):
Sports weight (3) yarn about .75 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook

Larger (16-17 inches):
Worsted weight (4) yarn about 1.5 ounces
US size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook

Both sizes:
Tapestry needle

GAUGE:
16 sc = 4 inches with sports weight
14 sc = 4 inches with worsted weight

NOTES: 
1.     Read instructions through before beginning.
2.     Ch 2 at beg of each round does not count as hdc.
3.     Pull the slip stitches tight, until they nearly disappear.
4.     For a larger cap, use worsted weight and an US I (5.5 mm) crochet hook.
5.     Caps in photo are left to right:  Red Heart Super Saver and Bernat Baby Sport.

INSTRUCTIONS:
.
Round 1: Ch 3, working over the tail 9 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with slip stitch in ­1st hdc.  (9 sts)

Round 2: Ch 2. 2 hdc in each hdc around. Join with slip stitch in ­1st hdc. (18 sts)

Round 3: Ch 2. 1 hdc in ­1st hdc. *2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc. 
Repeat from * around.  2 hdc in last hdc.  Join with slip stitch in 1st hdc. (27 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2. 2 hdc in ­1st hdc. *1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * around.  Hdc in last 2 hdc. Join with slip stitch in ­1st hdc. (36 sts)

Round 5: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * around.  Join with slip stitch to ­1st hdc. (45 sts) 

Round 6: Ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in ­next hdc. *1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. Repeat from * around.  Hdc in last 2 hdc. Join with slip stitch in ­1st hdc. (54 sts)


Rounds 7-14: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc around. Join with slip stitch in ­1st hdc.  (54 sts) 

Round 15 larger size only: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc around. Join with slip stitch in ­1st hdc.  (54 sts) 

With the sports weight yarn cap should measure about 4.75 inches from beginning. 

With the worsted weight yarn cap should measure about 5.75 inches from beginning. 

DO NOT fasten off.

EARFLAP: 
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in join, sc in each of next 12 hdc. Turn.   (13 sts)

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st across.  Turn.  (13 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1.  Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 9 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (11 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1.  Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 7 sts.  Sc2tog. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1.  Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 5 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1.  Sc2tog. Sc in each of next 3 sts. Sc2tog. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1.  Sc2tog. Sc in next 1 st. Sc2tog. (3 sts)

Fasten off.

Holding cap with top down, counting to the left skip next 18 sts for the front..

Attach yarn with a sc in 19th st, sc in each of next 12 hdc (10 unworked stitches for back). Turn.   (13 sts)

Check now to be sure the joins of rounds 1-14 are going to be in back of cap. 

Repeat earflap rows 2-9.

Do not fasten off.

Edging: Ch 1. Work 1 round of sc evenly around edge of cap.  Working 8 sc on each side of earflap and 1 in each sc.  Join with slip stitch in 1st sc.

Fasten off.

Weave in ends.  Remember when you worked over the beginning tail?  When weaving in the end pull the beginning tail tight to close up the hole in the top of cap.  (Oops, you didn’t work over the beginning tail, no problem just use the tapestry needle to weave in the end and pull tight to close the hole.)

OPTIONAL TIES AND TASSELS:

Leaving a 5 inch tail, ch 21.  Remove hook from loop, from inside place hook through bottom center of earflap, pull loop through and ch 1.  Slip stitch in the bumps on the back of the chs, 

Fasten off leaving a 5 inch tail.

Cut 3 pieces of yarn, each 10 inches long.  Use the tapestry needle to pull the pieces through the end of the tie.  Tie an overhand knot as close as possible to the chains.  Pull each strand of tassel individually to tighten knot. 

Repeat for second tassel.

Trim tassels evenly.


Tuesday, May 07, 2013

EASY SEAMLESS BOOTIES

In the fall of 1960, when I was expecting my older son, I first crocheted these booties.  This version is updated for today's yarns.

Thank you Virginia for testing this pattern.

EASY SEAMLESS BOOTIES 


MATERIALS:

0-3 months (3.5 inches):
Sports weight (3) yarn about .5 ounces
US size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook

3-6 months (4.5 inches):
Worsted weight (4) yarn about 1.25 ounces
US size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook

Both sizes:
Stitch marker (I use a bobby pin)
Tapestry needle

NOTES:
  1. Read instructions through before beginning.
  2. If you want a larger bootie you can adjust the number of stitches in your starting chain.
  3. Booties in the photo were crocheted with Bernat Baby Sport (0-3 month) and Red Heart Super Saver (3-6 month).
SPECIAL STITCHES:

Sc2tog = Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Hdc2tog = (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Leaving about a 4 inch tail, ch 16.

Round 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in remaining 14 ch.  Do not turn.  Working over tail for remainder of this round, hdc in the opposite side (unworked loops) of the beginning ch. (30 sts)

Place stitch marker in the hdc you just crocheted.

Do not join, work in continuous rounds. Move your stitch marker up to mark the last st made of each round.

Round 2-4: Hdc in 30 hdc.  (30 sts)

Round 5: Hdc2tog in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc in remaining sts.  (28 sts)

Round 6: Hdc2tog in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc in remaining sts.  (26 sts)

Round 7: Sc2tog in next 2 st; twice. Sc in remaining sts.  (24 sts)

Round 8: Sc2tog in 2 st; twice. Sc in remaining sts.  (22 sts)

Remove stitch marker, you won’t need it until you start the next bootie.

Round 9: Slip stitch in 1st st, pull the slip stitch tight so it almost disappears. Ch 2, dc in same stitch as slip stitch and in remaining 21 stitches.  Skip ch2, join with a slip stitch around the first dc as if to fpdc.  (22 sts)


Round 10-11: Ch2.  *Bpdc around next stitch. Fpdc around next stitch.
Repeat from * around.  Join with a slip stitch around the ch2 as if to fpdc. (22 sts)

Fasten off.

Weave in end.

Repeat for second bootie.

OPTIONAL TIES AND TASSELS:

Leaving a 5 inch tail, ch 60.  Fasten off leaving a 5 inch tail.

Cut 3 pieces of yarn, each 10 inches long.  Use the tapestry needle to pull the pieces through the end of the tie.  Tie an overhand knot as close as possible to the chains.  Pull each strand of tassel individually to tighten knot.  Repeat for other end of tie.

Repeat for second tassel.

Trim tassels evenly.

Weave tie through round 9.




Sunday, May 05, 2013

ANGEL WING BABY PINAFORE

Sleeves without the optional picot shell edge.
Sleeve on the left has the optional picot shell edge.



Thank you Maxine Gonser for graciously allowing me to revise her pattern to be worked in the round.

Thank you Virginia J for testing this pattern.

ANGEL WING BABY PINAFORE 

MATERIALS:
Sport weight (3) yarn less than 3 ounces
US H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
1 or 2 buttons that will fit snugly through row 2

GAUGE: 
7 sts = 2 inches
2 rows of dc = 1 inch 

SIZE:
At underarm = 18 inches
Length neckline to hem = 10 inches

NOTES:
  1. Read instructions through before beginning.
  2. I based this pattern on Maxine Gonser’s Angel Wing Newborn Pinafore on Bev’s Country Cottage: http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/angel-wings-pinafore.html  
  3. The measurements above are for a pinafore crocheted with Bernat Baby Sport.  If you want a larger pinafore use worsted weight and the appropriate size hook. 
  4. If you don’t like working into the back bump, you can just work into the stitch normally.
  5. The turning chain twos do not count as a double crochet.

Ch 52, leaving about a 10 inch tail.  More about the tail later.

Row 1:  Sc in back bump of second ch from hook an in each ch across. (51 sts)

Row 2:  Ch 2. turn. Dc in each of next 3 sts. * 2dc in next st. dc in each of next 3 sts. repeat from * 11 times.  (63 sts)

Row 3:  Ch 2. turn. Dc in each of the next 3 sts. * 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 4 sts.  Repeat from * 11 times. (75 sts)

Row 4:  Ch 2.turn. dc in each of the next 4 sts. * 2 dc in the next st.dc in each of the next 4 sts.  Repeat from * 13 times. Dc in each of the remaining sts.  (89 sts)

Join with slip stitch in first true dc of row 4, to begin working in rounds.  We will keep the same numbering sequence.  From here on the chain 3 counts as a double crochet.

Round 5:  Ch 3, dc in the same st.  *Skip next st, shell (2dc ch 2 2dc) in next st.  Repeat from * around.  2dc in last dc.  Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell.  (44 shells) 

Round 6:  Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc.  Shell in next 5 shells, ch 3, skip 10 shells, shell in next 13 shells, ch 3, skip 10 shells, shell in next 5 shells, 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked.   Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell.  (24 shells)

Round 7:  Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc.  Shell in 5  shells, dc in each of next 3 ch, shell in next 13 shells, dc in each of 3 ch, shell in next 5 shells. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked.   Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell.  (24 shells)


Round 8:  Ch 3, dc in the space made by hdc.  Shell in next 5 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc,  shell in next 13 shells, skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc, shell in next 5 shells.  2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked.   Hdc in beginning ch 3 to form last shell.  (26 shells)

Rounds 9-17:  Ch 3, dc in the space created by hdc.  Shell in each shell around. 2dc in space where first 2 dc were worked.  Hdc in beginning ch 3.
(26 shells)

If using a contrasting color for the final round fasten off and start next round with the contrasting yarn.

Round 18:  Ch 3, 2dc in the space created by hdc.  *In next shell 3dc , ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch, 3dc all in same space.  Repeat from * around.  3dc in space where first 3 dc were worked, ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch.  Fasten off and use tapestry needle to join to beginning ch3.   (26 shells)

Weave in end.

Remember the beginning tail?  Use that to sew on the button.  Use a space in row 2 for the buttonhole. 

Optional Sleeve Edging:
Attach yarn with a sc in the center ch of the underarm ch3, sc in next ch.  *In next shell 2dc , ch3, slip stitch in back bump of first ch, 2dc all in same space.  Repeat from * around.  (there will be 12 picot shells) Sc in last of the underarm chains.  Fasten off and weave in end.  (if you prefer you can join with a slip stitch before fastening off, but I prefer joining with my tapestry needle.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Wednesday, May 01, 2013

TWISTED OLD SHALE BABY BLANKET


TWISTED OLD SHALE BABY BLANKET




SIZES: 28 x 34 inches

MATERIALS:
Caron One Pound Soft Pink 12 ounces
US size 10 (6.0 mm) 24 inch or longer circular knitting needle
Tapestry needle

NOTES:
  1. Read instructions through before beginning.
  2. The first and last 6 stitches of each row are knit for the side borders.
  3. To increase the width cast on additional stitches in multiples of 18.
  4. If you make your blanket larger you will need more than 12 ounces of yarn.
  5. To purl through the back of the yarn over work as in this video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MGUeMN7MNc  The purl through the back loop is the second half of the video.
  6. This blanket would be larger if blocked.  For a baby blanket I prefer it unblocked, it seems cuddlier without blocking.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Cast on 120 sts.

Rows 1-8:  Knit for border.

Row 9 right side:  K6, K2tog 3 times. *(YO, K1) 6 times. K2tog 6 times.  Repeat from * to last 18 stitches.  (YO, K1) 6 times.  K2tog 3 times.  K6.  (120 sts)

When working the next row purl the YOs in the back loop.  Purl the other stitches normally.

Row 10:  K6,  P across to last 6 sts, K6. (120 sts)

Row 11:  K. (120 sts)

Row 12:  K. (120 sts) 

Repeat rows 9-12 until blanket is about 1 1/2 inches less than desired length.

Knit 7 rows for border.

Bind off.

Weave in ends.

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